Author: T.F. O'Brien Cooling & Heating

Automatic & Programmable Thermostats

Posted on by T.F. O'Brien Cooling & Heating

Automatic Programmable Thermostats

In our modern, high-tech society, we don’t think much about some of the electronic gadgets in our homes. Take, for example, the ever-present thermostat–a staple of American households for decades. It usually takes the shape of an unassuming box on the wall, but that modest device controls the comfort of your family on the coldest day in January and the hottest day in July.

What Is a Thermostat?

It is a temperature-sensitive switch that controls a space conditioning unit or system, such as a furnace, air conditioner, or both. When the indoor temperature drops below or rises above the thermostat setting, the switch moves to the “on” position, and your furnace or air conditioner runs to warm or cool the house air to the setting you selected for your family’s comfort. A thermostat, in its simplest form, must be manually adjusted to change the indoor air temperature.

General Thermostat Operation

You can easily save energy in the winter by setting the thermostat to 68 degrees F (20 degrees C) when you’re at home and awake, and lowering it when you’re asleep or away.

This strategy is effective and inexpensive if you are willing to adjust the thermostat by hand and wake up in a chilly house. In the summer, you can follow the same strategy with central air conditioning, too, by keeping your house warmer than normal when you are away, and lowering the thermostat setting to 78 degrees F (26 degrees C) only when you are at home and need cooling. A common misconception associated with thermostats is that a furnace works harder than normal to warm the space back to a comfortable temperature after the thermostat has been set back, resulting in little or no savings. This misconception has been dispelled by years of research and numerous studies. The fuel required to reheat a building to a comfortable temperature is roughly equal to the fuel saved as the building drops to the lower temperature. You save fuel between the time that the temperature stabilizes at the lower level and the next time heat is needed. So, the longer your house remains at the lower temperature, the more energy you save.

Another misconception is that the higher you raise a thermostat, the more heat the furnace will put out, or that the house will warm up faster if the thermostat is raised higher. Furnaces put out the same amount of heat no matter how high the thermostat is set–the variable is how long it must stay on to reach the set temperature.

In the winter, significant savings can be obtained by manually or automatically reducing your thermostat’s temperature setting for as little as four hours per day. These savings can be attributed to a building’s heat loss in the winter, which depends greatly on the difference between the inside and outside temperatures. For example, if you set the temperature back on your thermostat for an entire night, your energy savings will be substantial. By turning your thermostat back 10 degrees to 15 degrees for 8 hours, you can save about 5% to 15% a year on your heating bill–a savings of as much as 1% for each degree if the setback period is eight hours long. The percentage of savings from setback is greater for buildings in milder climates than for those in more severe climates. In the summer, you can achieve similar savings by keeping the indoor temperature a bit higher when you’re away than you do when you’re at home.

But there is a certain amount of inconvenience that results from manually controlling the temperature on your thermostat. This includes waking up in a cooler than normal house in the winter and possibly forgetting to adjust the thermostat (during any season) when you leave the house or go to bed.

Thermostats with Automatic Temperature Adjustment

To maximize your energy savings without sacrificing comfort, you can install an automatic setback or programmable thermostat. They adjust the temperature setting for you. While you might forget to turn down the heat before you leave for work in the morning, a programmable thermostat won’t! By maintaining the highest or lowest required temperatures for four or five hours a day instead of 24 hours, a programmable thermostat can pay for itself in energy saved within four years.

Programmable thermostats have features with which you may be unfamiliar. The newest generation of residential thermostat technologies is based on microprocessors and thermistor sensors. Most of these programmable thermostats perform one or more of the following energy control functions:

-They store and repeat multiple daily settings, which you can manually override without affecting the rest of the daily or weekly program.

-They store six or more temperature settings a day.

-They adjust heating or air conditioning turn-on times as the outside temperature changes. Most programmable thermostats have liquid crystal temperature displays. Some have back-up battery packs that eliminate the need to reprogram the time or clock in case of a power failure. New programmable thermostats can be programmed to accommodate life style and control heating and cooling systems as needed.

A Note for Heat Pump Owners

When a heat pump is in its heating mode, setting back a conventional heat pump thermostat can cause the unit to operate inefficiently, thereby canceling out any savings achieved by lowering the temperature setting. Maintaining a moderate setting is the most cost-effective practice. Recently, however, some companies have begun selling specially designed setback thermostats for heat pumps, which make setting back the thermostat cost effective. In its cooling mode, the heat pump operates like an air conditioner; therefore, manually turning up the thermostat will save you money.

Types of Automatic and Programmable Thermostats

There are five basic types of automatic and programmable thermostats:
1.      electromechanical
2.      digital
3.      hybrid
4.      occupancy
5.      light sensing

Electromechanical (EM) thermostats, usually the easiest devices to operate, typically have manual controls such as movable tabs to set a rotary timer and sliding levers for night and day temperature settings. These thermostats work with most conventional heating and cooling systems, except heat pumps. EM controls have limited flexibility and can store only the same settings for each day, although at least one manufacturer has a model with separate settings for each day of the week. EM thermostats are best suited for people with regular schedules.

Digital thermostats are identified by their LED or LCD digital readout and data entry pads or buttons. They offer the widest range of features and flexibility, and digital thermostats can be used with most heating and cooling systems. They provide precise temperature control, and they permit custom scheduling. Programming some models can be fairly complicated; make sure you are comfortable with the functions and operation of the thermostat you choose. Remember– you won’t save energy if you don’t set the controls or you set them incorrectly. Hybrid systems combine the technology of digital controls with manual slides and knobs to simplify use and maintain flexibility. Hybrid models are available for most systems, including heat pumps.

Occupancy thermostats maintain the setback temperature until someone presses a button to call for heating or cooling. They do not rely on the time of day. The ensuing preset “comfort period” lasts from 30 minutes to 12 hours, depending on how you’ve set the thermostat. Then, the temperature returns to the setback level. These units offer the ultimate in simplicity, but lack flexibility. Occupancy thermostats are best suited for spaces that remain unoccupied for long periods of time.

Light sensing heat thermostats rely on the lighting level preset by the owner to activate heating systems. When lighting is reduced, a photocell inside the thermostat senses unoccupied conditions and allows space temperatures to fall 10? below the occupied temperature setting. When lighting levels increase to normal, temperatures automatically adjust to comfort conditions. These units do not require batteries or programming and reset themselves after power failures. Light sensing thermostats are designed primarily for stores and offices where occupancy determines lighting requirements, and therefore heating requirements.

By turning your thermostat back 10 to 15 degrees for 8 hours, you can save 5% to 15% a year on your heating bill – a savings of as much as 1% for each degree if the setback period is eight hours long.

Choosing a Programmable Thermostat

Because programmable thermostats are a relatively new technology, you should learn as much as you can before selecting a unit. When shopping for a thermostat, bring information with you about your current unit, including the brand and model number. Also, ask these questions before buying a thermostat:
•      Does the unit’s clock draw its power from the heating system’s low-voltage electrical control circuit instead of a battery? If so, is the clock disrupted when the furnace cycles on and off? Battery-operated back-up thermostats are preferred by many homeowners.
•      Is the thermostat compatible with the electrical wiring found in your current unit?
•      Are you able to install it yourself, or should you hire an electrician or a heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) contractor?
•      How precise is the thermostat?
•      Are the programming instructions easy to understand and remember? Some thermostats have the instructions printed on the cover or inside the housing box. Otherwise, will you have to consult the instruction booklet every time you want to change the setback times? Most automatic and programmable thermostats completely replace existing units. These are preferred by many homeowners. However, some devices can be placed over existing thermostats and are mechanically controlled to permit automatic setbacks. These units are usually powered by batteries, which eliminates the need for electrical wiring. They tend to be easy to program, and because they run on batteries, the clocks do not lose time during power outages.

Before you buy a programmable thermostat, chart your weekly habits including wake up and departure times, return home times, and bedtimes, and the temperatures that are comfortable during those times. This will help you decide what type of thermostat will best serve your needs.

A programmable thermostat can pay for itself in energy saved within four years.

Other Considerations

The location of your thermostat can affect its performance and efficiency. Read the manufacturer’s installation instructions to prevent “ghost readings” or unnecessary furnace or air conditioner cycling. Place thermostats away from direct sunlight, drafts, doorways, skylights, and windows. Also make sure your thermostat is conveniently located for programming.

Some modern heating and cooling systems require special controls. Heat pumps are the most common and usually require special setback thermostats. These thermostats typically use special algorithms to minimize the use of backup electric resistance heat systems. Electric resistance systems, such as electric baseboard heating, also require thermostats capable of directly controlling 120 volt or 240 volt line-voltage circuits. Only a few companies manufacture line-voltage setback thermostats.

A Simpler Way to Control Your Environment

The best thermostat for you will depend on your life style and comfort level in varying house temperatures. While automatic and programmable thermostats save energy, a manual unit can be equally effective if you diligently regulate its setting–and if you don’t mind a chilly house on winter mornings. If you decide to choose an automatic thermostat, you can set it to raise the temperature before you wake up and spare you some discomfort. It will also perform consistently and dependably to keep your house at comfortable temperatures during the summer heat, as well.

Source List

•      The Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy Clearinghouse (EREC) P.O. Box 3048 Merrifield, VA 22116 (800) 363-3732 Fax: (703) 893-0400
•      EREC provides free general and technical information to the public on the many topics and technologies pertaining to energy efficiency and renewable energy.

Reading List

•      “Electronic Thermostats,” Radio-Electronics, June 1992.
•      “Energy Saving Thermostats,” Consumer Reports, October 1993.” “Good News on the ‘Setback’ Front,” T. Wilson, Home Energy, Jan-Feb 1991. 2124 Kittredge Street, No. 95, Berkeley, CA 94704, (510) 524-5405. “Home Environment,” Home Mechanix, February 1992.
•      “Home Q&A,” Home Mechanix, November 1995.
•      “The Latest in Home Thermostats,” Consumers’ Research Magazine, February 1990.
•      “New Electronic Thermostats Save Money,” Consumers Digest, January 1989.
•      “Programmable Thermostats: How to Buy and Install One in Your Home,” Family Handyman, January 1989.
•      “Smart Thermostats for Comfort and Conservation,” March 1994, EPRI Journal.
•      This document was produced from material from the Information Services Program, under the DOE Office of Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy. The Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy Clearinghouse (EREC) is operated by NCI Information Systems, Inc., for NREL/DOE. The statements contained herein are based on information known to EREC and NREL at the time of printing. No recommendation or endorsement of any product or service is implied if mentioned by EREC.

Source: U.S. Department of Energy

A Professional Evaluation Can Be Your First Step to Energy Savings

Posted on by T.F. O'Brien Cooling & Heating

We all want to save money on our utility bills. It can be a shock to see the total on your bill in the sweltering summer season or the freezing winter. For New Yorkers, temperature extremes are a fact of life – but high energy bills do not have to be.

In order to keep more of your hard-earned money, you need to make sure your home is energy efficient. It can be very complicated to locate all the areas of your home that need an energy tune-up, then decide the best way to fix them. The good news is that you don’t have to take care of this on your own. Just call your local home energy expert for an energy savings consultation and home evaluation.

Your Home Energy Audit

Using specialized equipment, a certified professional will walk through your home and also inspect the inner workings of your heating, cooling and ventilation systems. HVAC inspectors are trained to spot areas in your home that are not properly insulated and locate any wasteful or potentially dangerous leaks in your system. They can also alert you to small problems before they turn into big repair bills.

In just a few minutes, you will have the results of your energy audit – a concise list of issues that are standing between you and big energy savings. After assessing your home’s energy needs, the inspector will recommend simple, straightforward solutions to improve your home’s energy efficiency. At this point, you will have an estimate of the amount you could save on your monthly bills.

T.F. O’Brien services the Long Island, New York area.

Our goal is to help educate our customers about energy and home comfort issues (specific to HVAC systems).  For more information about preventive maintenance and other HVAC topics, please download our free  Home Comfort Resource guide.

Does Ductwork Mold Take Winter Off?

Posted on by T.F. O'Brien Cooling & Heating

During the winter season on Long Island, it wouldn’t seem possible for mold to build up as dry heat goes constantly through your ducts. Your duct system is the guts of your furnace and cooling systems and must be kept healthy. While it’s true that mold is a bigger issue in the summer months, the winter season does not let homeowners off the hook when it comes to dangerous mold.

No matter the season, the inside of your HVAC system has its own micro-climate. There may be water leaks and humidity within your walls that are not obvious to the casual observer. Because doors and windows are usually shut tight in winter, your family may be even more exposed to mold in the closed environment.

Mold in the New York area is such a big problem that a government  study  was funded to assess the extent of the issue faced by residents and propose some solutions. The report noted that mold is connected to serious symptoms of disease and discomforts such as allergic reactions, asthma attacks and skin reactions. If you or your family is suffering from allergy symptoms or even unexplained fatigue and tiredness, house mold could be the culprit.

The EPA (US Environmental Protection Agency) recommends that you have your air duct system cleaned if there is substantial visible mold growth in your ducts or other components of your heating and cooling systems.The agency suggests that you have the system inspected by a professional to find and address the root cause of the problem. After your inspection and possible clean-up, think about signing up for a semi-annual HVAC maintenance plan to catch any problems, such as mold buildup, early. Remember that certain types of mold can be toxic. Act now to protect your family’s health and keep your home comfortable.

T.F. O’Brien services the Long Island, New York area.

Our goal is to help educate our customers about energy and home comfort issues (specific to HVAC systems).  For more information about preventive maintenance and other HVAC topics, please download our free  Home Comfort Resource guide.

The Golden Rules of Designing a Zoned System

Posted on by T.F. O'Brien Cooling & Heating

Here are six common sense rules we teach our people that will make designing systems a breeze. When you design a zoned system you should follow these guidelines as much as possible when grouping rooms together to form a zone:

1)   Never combine different floors on the same zone. The fact that hot air rises, and cold air falls will sink you before you even begin. As everyone knows, there’s nothing worse than a customer with a hot head or cold feet!

2)   Never zone rooms of different construction types in the same zone. For an example, a new addition should always have it’s own thermostat since it t typically has better insulation than the rest of the home, and it will react differently than older sections of the home.

3)   Never zone rooms that have perimeter wall areas with rooms that are entirely internal to the structure since they are not affected by the outside temperature changes. All internal rooms should be grouped together whenever possible.

4)   All thermostats should be located in the room used the most in any area. Just like with non-zoned systems thermostats should never be installed in hallways, unless the customer plans on doing most of his living there.

5)   Never put rooms with conflicting solar or mechanically generated heat loads on the same zone. For example don’t put a east facing room that receives a heavy morning sun load onto the same zone as a western facing room.

6)   Always try to have a minimum of two registers for any one zone. This keeps the air flow more stable, and guarantees airflow when the customers dog decides to nap on top of one.

You may not be able to follow every rule, but if you at least take them into consideration when you design a system you’ll avoid a lot of trouble.

Copyright 2000. Contractor’s Online-Access

Use and Care of Home Humidifiers

Posted on by T.F. O'Brien Cooling & Heating

Introduction to Humidifiers

Humidifiers are commonly used in homes to relieve the physical discomforts of dry nose, throat, lips, and skin. The moisture they add to dry air also helps alleviate common nuisances brought on by winter heating, such as static electricity, peeling wallpaper, and cracks in paint and furniture. However, excess moisture can encourage the growth of biological organisms in the home. These organisms include dust mites, which are microscopic animals that produce materials causing allergic reactions to household dust, and molds.

Recent studies by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) have shown that ultrasonic and impeller (or “cool mist”) humidifiers can disperse materials, such as microorganisms and minerals, from their water tanks into indoor air. At present, only limited information is available on the growth of microorganisms and the dispersal of microorganisms and minerals by home humidifiers.

Proper care and cleaning of ultrasonic and impeller humidifiers are important for reducing potential exposures to microorganisms, such as bacteria and molds. Microorganisms often grow in humidifiers which are equipped with tanks containing standing water. Breathing mist containing these pollutants has been implicated as causing a certain type of inflammation of the lungs.

The Federal government has not concluded that the dispersal of minerals by home humidifiers poses a serious health risk. Nevertheless, using water with lower mineral content will reduce exposures to these materials.

The young, the elderly, and those people with lung diseases or respiratory allergies may be particularly susceptible to certain types of airborne pollutants. However, if you follow the recommendations for the use and care of home humidifiers provided in this fact sheet, the potential for dispersal of microorganisms and minerals from your humidifier should be reduced.

Can I Use Tap Water in My Ultrasonic or Impeller Humidifier?

The Federal government has not concluded that using tap water in ultrasonic or impeller humidifiers poses a serious health risk. However, researchers have documented that these humidifiers are very efficient at dispersing minerals in tap water into the air. In addition, some consumers are bothered by a “white dust” that may appear on surfaces during use of these devices. Most importantly, minerals in tap water may increase the development of crusty deposits, or scale, in humidifiers. Scale can be a breeding ground for microorganisms.

Retarding the growth of scale is the most compelling reason to find alternatives to tap water. For this reason, or if white dust is a problem or you wish to minimize your exposure to minerals in the tap water as a matter of prudence, you should either:

1. Use bottled water labelled “distilled.” While distilled water still contains some mineral content, it will likely contain lower mineral content than most tap water. Distillation is the most effective method for removing minerals from water.

Two additional demineralization processes, deionization and reverse osmosis, remove most of the minerals from water, but are generally less effective than distillation. Water demineralized by these two processes would, on the average, be expected to contain a higher mineral content than distilled waters. “Purified” water may be produced by any of these three or other similar processes.

Be aware, however, that not all bottled water is produced using demineralization processes. Bottled waters labelled “spring”, “artesian” or “mineral” have not been treated to remove mineral content.

2. Consider using demineralization cartridges, cassettes, or filters if supplied or recommended for use with your humidifier

Be aware, however, that the ability of these devices to remove minerals may vary widely. Further research is needed to determine how well, and how long, these devices work. Watch for the appearance of “white dust,” which would indicate that minerals are not being removed.

Also, in areas of the country where the mineral content in the tap water is high, using distilled water may be less expensive than cartridges, cassettes, or filters.

Types of Humidifiers and Associated Pollutants

Console humidifiers are encased in cabinets which are designed for floor use. Portable humidifiers are smaller and more readily moved. Central humidifiers are built into heating and air-conditioning systems, and humidify the whole house.

The two types of humidifiers which generally appear to produce the greatest dispersions of both microorganisms and minerals are:

-Ultrasonic, which create a cool mist by means of ultrasonic sound vibrations.

-Impeller, or “cool mist,” which produce a cool mist by means of a high speed rotating disk.

Two additional types of humidifiers can allow for growth of micro-organisms if they are equipped with a tank that holds standing water, but generally disperse less, if any, of these pollutants into the air. These are:

-Evaporative, which transmit moisture into the air invisibly by using a fan to blow air through a moistened absorbent material, such as a belt, wick, or filter.

-Steam vaporizer, which create steam by heating water with an electrical heating element or electrodes. “Warm mist” humidifiers are a type of steam vaporizer humidifier in which the steam is cooled before exiting the machine.

Note: Steam vaporizer and evaporative humidifiers are not expected to disperse substantial amounts of minerals. A steam vaporizer tested by EPA did not disperse measurable amounts of minerals; evaporative humidifiers have not been tested by EPA for mineral dispersal.

Recommendations for Use and Care

It is important to use a humidifier only when conditions require it, to use the correct moisture setting for existing conditions, and to clean it thoroughly.

The possible health effects resulting from the dispersal of microorganisms and minerals by home humidifiers are not fully understood. Meanwhile, it may be prudent to reduce the potential for personal exposures to these materials by taking the following precautions, particularly when using ultrasonic and impeller humidifiers.

-Empty the tank, wipe all surfaces dry, and refill the water in portable humidifiers daily to reduce any growth of microorganisms; follow the manufacturer’s instructions for changing water in console humidifiers. Be sure you unplug the unit from the electrical socket first.

-Use water with low mineral content to prevent the build-up of scale and the dispersal of minerals into the air. See the box on the left for information on using water with low mineral content.

-Clean portable humidifiers every third day. Empty the tank and use a brush or other scrubber to clean it. Remove any scale, deposits, or film that has formed on the sides of the tank or on interior surfaces, and wipe all surfaces dry. Again, be sure you unplug the unit.

-Follow the manufacturer’s suggestions on the use of cleaning products or disinfectants. In the absence of specific recommendations, clean all surfaces coming in contact with water with a 3% solution of hydrogen peroxide. If you use any cleaning or disinfecting agent, rinse the tank thoroughly with several changes of tap water to prevent dispersal of chemicals into the air during use.

-Follow the manufacturer’s directions on cleaning and maintaining console and central (furnace mounted) humidifiers. In particular, if the humidifier contains a tank, do not allow water to stand in the tank for extended periods of time, and keep the water clean.

-Keep steam vaporizer humidifiers out of the reach of children. Steam and boiling water may cause burns.

-Do not humidify to indoor relative humidity levels exceeding 50 percent. Higher humidity levels may encourage the growth of biological organisms in the home. Hygrometers, available at local hardware stores, may be used to measure humidity levels. Some humidifiers contain a built-in humidistat which may be adjusted to the proper moisture level. If water condenses on windows, walls, or pictures, either relocate the humidifier, lower its humidistat setting, or reduce its use.

-Do not permit the area around the humidifier to become damp or wet. If dampness occurs, turn the output volume of the humidifier down. If the humidifier output volume cannot be turned down, use the, humidifier intermittently. Do not allow absorbent materials, such as carpeting, drapes, or table cloths, to become damp.

-Follow the manufacturer’s instructions regarding the use, maintenance, and replacement of any materials supplied with the humidifier. Use appropriate materials as recommended by the product manufacturer.

-Clean the humidifier, as directed, at the end of the humidifying season or when the product will not be in frequent use. Before storage, make sure all the parts are dry. Dispose of all used demineralization cartridges, cassettes, or filters. Store the unit in a dry location. After storage, clean the unit again and remove any dust on the outside.

-Stop using your humidifier and contact your physician if you have respiratory symptoms which you believe are associated with periods of use of your home humidifier, even if you are following maintenance directions.

Source: Environmental Protection Agency

Benefits of a Whole-House Humidifier

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Dry Air Can Have an Affect on Your Home and Family

We all know that dry air can be uncomfortable.  Your skin gets dry and itchy, your lips get chapped, static electricity makes your clothes and hair do funny things; and even breathing doesn’t always feel great.  But did you know that low humidity levels can also have several other negative effects?

A whole-house humidifier has many benefits, and they are not just limited to increasing your home comfort:

  • Improve indoor air quality: Proper moisture levels reduce bacteria, viruses, and other irritants and help lower the risk of respiratory infections.
  • Protect your home furnishings: Dry air can be damaging to wood floors, furniture, trim, and musical instruments.  Dry air also tends to be dustier, causing you to clean and vacuum more frequently.
  • Save energy: Dry air feels colder, which will make you turn up the heat in winter, using more energy and costing you money.  The proper humidity level will make you feel warmer and help keep utility bills down.

It is clear that proper humidity levels are important for home comfort, air quality, and energy savings, but why should you consider a whole-house humidifier?

  • Every room will have the same humidity level.
  • You don’t have to maintain several portable humidifiers throughout the house.
  • They do not use a reservoir, so there is no stagnant water available for mold and mildew to grow.
  • They use less energy than portable units, especially in the case of  flow-through humidification systems.
  • The don’t take up valuable space in our home; you don’t even see them!

There are several models and types of whole-house humidification systems available.  The model that is right for your home will depend on your existing heating and air conditioning system, the size of your home, and other factors.  We have a long history of helping our Long Island customers find the best home comfort solutions for their needs,  call us today to learn more about what a whole-house humidifier can do for you.

Placement Essential for CO Detectors

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Where is the Best Place to Put My Carbon Monoxide Detector?

Homeowners who use fuel-burning appliances or gas heat should know that carbon monoxide detectors are essential for saving lives. The key to keeping your home and your family safe is knowing where to place the them, so that members of your family are alerted immediately, should there be a danger.

CO (carbon monoxide) may be generated in a variety of ways; open flames, water heaters, space heaters and chimneys that are blocked may be sources of this odorless, invisible gas that puts your family at risk.

Where should you place the carbon monoxide detectors in your home for the greatest protection?

  • If your home has more than one level, make certain a detector is placed on each floor.
  • According to the Consumer Product Safety Commission, one detector should be placed in every bedroom in the home so that a sleeping individual will be easily alerted.
  • If you only have one detector, it is recommended that you place it near the sleeping area.
  • When placed on a wall, carbon monoxide detectors should be located about 5 feet above floor level on the wall, as CO may rise higher in the air when contained in warmer air emitted by home heating sources and other combustion appliances.
  • The ceiling is another good place for the device, because the gas does tend to rise.   Never place the detector close to a light source.
  • One place you want to avoid placing a detector is close to a fireplace or another fuel-burning appliance.   Some of these appliances emit a tiny amount of carbon monoxide when starting, such as a gas stove.   Placing a detector closer than 15 feet to these appliances may result in unnecessary alerts.

While placing carbon monoxide detectors in a hallway is something many homeowners do, it’s best to place the devices in the areas mentioned above

Our goal is to help educate our customers about energy and home comfort issues (specific to HVAC systems).  For more information about preventive maintenance and other HVAC topics, please download our free  Home Comfort Resource guide.

House Not Comfortable? Improperly Sized Ductwork May Be the Problem.

Posted on by T.F. O'Brien Cooling & Heating

If Your Ductwork Has Gaps, You’re Losing Precious Heat or Cool Air

Many homeowners don’t realize how much heated or cooled air escapes from duct systems before reaching the rest of the house. Some estimates say about 20 percent of the air in a typical home’s duct system is lost as a result of air leakage in the ducts themselves. Improperly sized ductwork is one cause of this problem.

Air does not flow smoothly when a home’s ducts are sized incorrectly, which can make your home too cool or too warm. In our part of New York, where we face both extremes of hot and cold weather, making sure air is flowing correctly makes a big difference in your comfort. The dust that can accumulate in ductwork that is improperly sized, when air flow is inhibited, will take a toll on your indoor air quality, as well.

Comfort and air quality are important, but just as important is the impact that inefficient ductwork has on your energy bills. Without the right flow, your home isn’t as energy efficient as possible and you’re really putting a strain on your heating and cooling systems.

If you suspect your air flow isn’t what it could be, consider an inspection by a certified professional. T.F. O’Brien Cooling & Heating can come up with strategies to you get your home back on track and all your heating and cooling systems flowing properly. We strive to educate our customers about their heating and cooling needs. For more information on ensuring your system is in proper working order and that your home is as efficient as possible, please see our free Home Comfort Resource Guide.

Dryer Vents Need Periodic Cleaning to Prevent Risks to Your Home

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Regular Dryer Maintenance is Essential to Performance and Safety

Your clothes dryer is an appliance that makes life easier, but it can also be a hazard in your home if not maintained properly.   When dryer vents become clogged or blocked, it presents a potential fire hazard.   You may also notice that it takes your clothes dryer longer to dry your clothes; this is due to inefficient air flow.

Each year, there are thousands of house fires associated with clothes dryers.   It is essential that you periodically perform certain tasks to ensure that your clothes dryer runs efficiently, and that your home and family are not in danger of a potential fire.

Dryer vents may become clogged with lint, dirt and other materials.   They may also be crushed or restricted, meaning that the hot air cannot escape through the exhaust properly.   Always avoid placing rugs or other objects underneath your dryer, as this can block air flow.   It is also important that you do not place your clothes dryer too close to the wall, as it may cause the exhaust hose to become crimped, which prohibits lint and warm air from escaping.

How can you clean dryer vents yourself?   At least one time per year, disconnect the hose and inspect it for a buildup of lint both inside and out.   A vacuum cleaner or stiff-bristled brush is usually sufficient to remove the lint that may have accumulated.   Also check the area where the vent hose connects to the dryer to make sure it is clean and free of dirt and lint.

The build-up of lint is the most common cause of house fires related to clothes dryers, so you may want to have a professional clean your dryer vents and ductwork.   If you do decide to do it yourself, always be sure to unplug your dryer to prevent the possibility of electrocution. Clean lint filters each time you dry a load of clothes to help prevent the build-up of lint.

Our goal is to help educate our customers about energy and home comfort issues (specific to HVAC systems).  For more information about preventive maintenance and other HVAC topics, please download our free  Home Comfort Resource guide.

Preventing Sinusitis

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Wondering Why You’re Not Breathing Very Well? It could be Sinusitis.

You’re coughing and sneezing and tired and achy. You think that you might be getting a cold. Later, when the medicines you’ve been taking to relieve the symptoms of the common cold are not working and you’ve now got a terrible headache, you finally drag yourself to the doctor. After listening to your history of symptoms and perhaps doing a sinus X-ray, the doctor says you have sinusitis.

Sinusitis simply means inflammation of the sinuses, but this gives little indication of the misery and pain this condition can cause. Chronic sinusitis, sinusitis that recurs frequently, affects an estimated 32 million people in the United States. Americans spend millions of dollars each year for medications that promise relief from their sinus symptoms.

Sinuses are hollow air spaces, of which there are many in the human body. When people say, “I’m having a sinus attack,” they usually are referring to symptoms in one or more of four pairs of cavities, or spaces, known as paranasal sinuses. These cavities, located within the skull or bones of the head surrounding the nose, include the frontal sinuses over the eyes in the brow area, the maxillary sinuses inside each cheekbone, the ethmoids just behind the bridge of the nose and between the eyes, and behind them, the sphenoids in the upper region of the nose and behind the eyes.

Each sinus has an opening into the nose for the free exchange of air and mucus, and each is joined with the nasal passages by a continuous mucous membrane lining. Therefore, anything that causes a swelling in the nose-an infection or an allergic reaction-also can affect the sinuses. Air trapped within an obstructed sinus, along with pus or other secretions, may cause pressure on the sinus wall. The result is the sometimes intense pain of a sinus attack. Similarly, when air is prevented from entering a paranasal sinus by a swollen membrane at the opening, a vacuum can be created that also causes pain.

Symptoms

Sinusitis has its own localized pain signals, depending upon the particular sinus affected. Headache upon awakening in the morning is characteristic of sinus involvement. Pain when the forehead over the frontal sinuses is touched may indicate inflammation of the frontal sinuses. Infection in the maxillary sinuses can cause the upper jaw and teeth to ache and the cheeks to become tender to the touch. Since the ethmoid sinuses are near the tear ducts in the corner of the eyes, inflammation of these cavities often causes swelling of the eyelids and tissues around the eyes and pain between the eyes. Ethmoid inflammation also can cause tenderness when the sides of the nose are touched, a loss of smell, and a stuffy nose. Although the sphenoid sinuses are less frequently affected, infection in this area can cause earaches, neck pain, and deep aching at the top of the head.

Other symptoms of sinusitis can include fever, weakness, tiredness, a cough that may be more severe at night, and runny nose or nasal congestion. In addition, drainage of mucus from the sphenoids down the back of the throat (postnasal drip) can cause a sore throat and can irritate the membranes lining the larynx (upper windpipe).

Causes

Most cases of acute sinusitis are caused by viruses and will clear up without treatment within two weeks. Viruses can enter the body through the nasal passages and set off a chain reaction resulting in sinusitis. For example, the nose reacts to an invasion by viruses that cause infections such as the common cold, flu, or measles by producing mucus and sending white blood cells to the lining of the nose, which congest and swell the nasal passages. When this swelling involves the adjacent mucous membranes of the sinuses, air and mucus are trapped behind the narrowed openings of the sinuses. If the sinus openings become too narrow to permit drainage of the mucus, then bacteria, which normally are present in the respiratory tract, begin to multiply. Most apparently healthy people harbor bacteria, such as Streptococcus pneumoniae and Haemophilus influenzae, in their upper respiratory tracts with no ill effects until the body’s defenses are weakened or drainage from the sinuses is blocked by a cold or other viral infection. The bacteria that may have been living harmlessly in the nose, throat, or sinus area can multiply and cause an acute sinus infection.

Medicines, too, can set off a nasal reaction with accompanying sinusitis. For example, intolerance to aspirin and other related non-steroidal anti-inflammatory medications, such as ibuprofen, can be associated with sinusitis in patients with asthma or nasal polyps (small growths on the mucous membrane lining of the sinuses).

Sometimes, fungal infections can cause acute sinusitis. Although these organisms are abundant in the environment, they usually are harmless to healthy people, indicating that the human body has a natural resistance to them. Fungi, such as Aspergillus and Curvularia, can cause serious illness, in people whose immune systems are not functioning properly. Some people with fungal sinusitis have an allergic-type reaction to the fungi.

Chronic inflammation of the nasal passages (rhinitis) also can lead to sinusitis. Allergic rhinitis or hay fever (discussed below) is the mostcommon cause of chronic sinusitis and is a frequent cause of acute sinusitis. Vasomotor rhinitis, caused by humidity, cold air, alcohol, perfumes, and other environmental conditions, also can result in a sinus infection.

Chronic Sinusitis

Chronic sinusitis refers to inflammation of the sinuses that continues for weeks, months, or even years.

As noted above, allergies are the most common cause of chronic sinusitis. Inhalation of airborne allergens (foreign substances that provoke an allergic reaction), such as dust, mold, and pollen, often set off allergic reactions (allergic rhinitis) that, in turn, may contribute to sinusitis. People who are allergic to fungi can develop a condition called “allergic fungal sinusitis.” As body cells react against these inhaled substances, they release chemical compounds, such as histamine, at the mucosal surface. These chemicals then cause the nasal passages to swell and block drainage from the sinuses, resulting in sinusitis.

Damp weather, especially in northern temperate climates, or pollutants in the air and in buildings also can affect people subject to chronic sinusitis.

Chronic sinusitis can be caused by structural abnormalities of the nose, such as a deviated septum (the bony partition separating the two nasal passages), or by small growths called nasal polyps, both of which can trap mucus in the sinuses.

Diagnosis

Although a stuffy nose can occur in other conditions, like the common cold, many people confuse simple nasal congestion with sinusitis. A cold, however, usually lasts about seven days and disappears without treatment. Acute sinusitis often lasts longer than a week. A doctor can diagnose sinusitis by medical history, physical examination, X-rays, and if necessary, MRIs or CT scans (magnetic resonance imaging and computed tomography).

Treatment

After diagnosing sinusitis and identifying a possible cause, a doctor can prescribe a course of treatment that will clear up the source of the inflammation and relieve the symptoms. Sinusitis is treated by re-establishing drainage of the nasal passages, controlling or eliminating the source of the inflammation, and relieving the pain. Doctors generally recommend decongestants to reduce the congestion, antibiotics to control a bacterial infection, if present, and pain relievers to reduce the pain.

Over-the-counter and prescription decongestant nose drops and sprays, however, should not be used for more than a few days. When used for longer periods, these drugs can lead to even more congestion and swelling of the nasal passages.

If symptoms do not improve within 10 to 14 days, the cause of sinusitis is likely to be bacterial. Most patients with sinusitis that is caused by bacteria can be treated successfully with antibiotics used along with a nasal or oral decongestant. A narrow-spectrum antibiotic — one that fights the most common bacteria — is the initial treatment recommended.

For many years, the combination of allergic disease and infectious sinusitis has been considered the most difficult form of sinus disease to treat. The patient with uncontrolled nasal allergies frequently experiences a lot of congestion, swelling, excess secretions, and discomfort in the sinus areas. Therefore, the patient should work with a doctor who understands the diagnosis and treatment of allergic diseases to pinpoint the cause of the allergies and follow an allergy care program to help alleviate sinusitis.

Doctors often prescribe steroid nasal sprays, along with other treatments, to reduce the congestion, swelling, and inflammation of sinusitis. Because steroid nasal sprays have no serious side effects, they can be used for long-term treatment. In some people, however, they irritate the nasal passages.

For patients with severe chronic sinusitis, a doctor may prescribe oral steroids, such as prednisone. Because oral steroids can have significant side effects, they are prescribed only when other medications have not been effective.

Although sinus infection cannot be cured by home remedies, people can use them to lessen their discomfort. Inhaling steam from a vaporizer or a hot cup of water can soothe inflamed sinus cavities. Another treatment is saline nasal spray, which can be purchased in a pharmacy. A hot water bottle; hot, wet compresses; or an electric heating pad applied over the inflamed area also can be comforting.

In treating patients with severe sinusitis, a physician may use special procedures. One technique requires the patient to lie on his back with his head over the edge of the examining table. A decongestant fluid is placed in the nose, and air is suctioned out of the nose so that the decongestant fluid can shrink the sinus membranes sufficiently to permit drainage. Or, a thin tube can be inserted into the sinuses for washing out entrapped pus and mucus.

Sometimes, however, surgery is the only alternative for preventing chronic sinusitis. In children, problems often are eliminated by removal of adenoids obstructing nasal-sinus passages. Adults who have had allergic and infectious conditions over the years sometimes develop polyps that interfere with proper drainage. Removal of these polyps and/or repair of a deviated septum to ensure an open airway often provides considerable relief from sinus symptoms. The most common surgery done today is functional endoscopic sinus surgery, in which the natural openings from the sinuses are enlarged to allow drainage.

Prevention

Although people cannot prevent all sinus disorders-any more than they can avoid all colds or bacterial infections-they can take certain measures to reduce the number and severity of the attacks and possibly prevent sinusitis from becoming chronic. Appropriate amounts of rest, a well-balanced diet, and exercise can help the body function at its most efficient level and maintain a general resistance to infections. Eliminating environmental factors, such as climate and pollutants, is not always possible, but they can often be controlled.

Many people with sinusitis find partial relief from their symptoms when humidifiers are installed in their homes, particularly if room air is heated by a dry forced-air system. Air conditioners help to provide an even temperature, and electrostatic filters attached to heating and air conditioning equipment are helpful in removing allergens from the air.

A person susceptible to sinus disorders, particularly one who also is allergic, should avoid cigarette smoke and other air pollutants.

Inflammation in the nose caused by allergies predisposes a patient to a strong reaction to all irritants. Drinking alcohol also causes the nasal-sinus membranes to swell.

Sinusitis-prone persons may be uncomfortable in swimming pools treated with chlorine, since it irritates the lining of the nose and sinuses. pers often experience congestion with resulting infection when water is forced into the sinuses from the nasal passages.

Air travel, too, poses a problem for the inpidual suffering from acute or chronic sinusitis. A bubble of air trapped within the body expands as air pressure in a plane is reduced. This expansion causes pressure on surrounding tissues and can result in a blockage of the sinuses or the eustachian tubes in the ears. The result may be discomfort in the sinus or middle ear during the plane’s ascent or descent. Doctors recommend using decongestant nose drops or inhalers before the flight to avoid this difficulty.

People who suspect that their sinus inflammation may be related to dust, mold, pollen, or food-or any of the hundreds of allergens that can trigger a respiratory reaction-should consult a doctor. Various tests can determine the cause of the allergy and also help the doctor recommend steps to reduce or limit allergy symptoms.

NIAID, a component of the National Institutes of Health, supports research on AIDS, tuberculosis and other infectious diseases as well as allergies and immunology.
Prepared by:

Office of Communications and Public Liaison
National Institute of Allergy and Infectious Diseases
National Institutes of Health
Bethesda, MD 20892

Public Health Service:

U.S. Department of Health and Human Services
June 1998