Kerry’s Blog

A New Furnace Can Reduce Heating Costs

Posted on by T.F. O'Brien Cooling & Heating

Heating bills across the country are the highest they have ever been, with out any relief in sight. Even if your older furnace runs, from an economic standpoint it would be wise to replace it. With the proper furnace selection, your central air-conditioning bills can be lower too.

Compared with a 17-year-old furnace, a new furnace can save the typical family hundreds of dollars per year. Based on the efficiency of your old furnace, probably 60% at best, a new furnace can cut your utility bills by 40%. You can do the arithmetic to determine your annual savings.

Not only will you have lower utility bills, but the comfort and quiet operation of a new system will surprise you. The contractor should install a computerized thermostat with it. This thermostat, coupled with the electronic controls in the new furnace, will maintain even room temperatures.

You can choose from two basic designs of furnaces: condensing and non-condensing. The condensing models (this refers to the type of heat exchanger used) are the most efficient and the best choice for most homeowners. The efficiencies of condensing models range from about 90% to over 95%.

These models are very efficient, and so little heat is lost in the flue gases that a chimney is not needed. The gases are exhausted by a 2-inch-diameter plastic pipe through an outdoor wall. With no need for a new chimney liner, a condensing furnace is often cheaper to install.

Some models also offer sealed combustion for better efficiency. The combustion air is drawn in from outdoors through another plastic pipe instead of being drawn from inside your house. Being sealed, there are fewer indoor drafts, less noise and less chance of hazardous back drafting.

For the ultimate in comfort and efficiency, but at a higher initial cost, is a two-stage heat output furnace with a variable-speed blower. This type of blower is needed if you want the best central air-conditioning.

In all but the coldest weather, the gas burners operate at a low heat level. This allows the furnace to run more continuously with fewer uncomfortable on/off cycles. The blower also runs slower and quieter at this low level. During very cold weather, it automatically switches to high heat.
If your budget allows, also install a quality air cleaner. Since a two-stage unit runs more, the air cleaner is more effective for allergy sufferers.

Understanding Air Conditioning

Posted on by T.F. O'Brien Cooling & Heating

Energy-Efficient Air Conditioning

Are you considering buying a new air conditioner? Or, are you dissatisfied with the operation of your current air conditioner? Are you unsure whether to fix or replace it? Are you concerned about high summer utility bills? If you answered yes to any of these questions, this publication can help. With it, you can learn about various types of air conditioning systems and how to maintain your air conditioner, hire professional air conditioning services, select a new air conditioner, and ensure that your new air conditioner is properly installed. Proper sizing, selection, installation, maintenance, and correct use are keys to cost-effective operation and lower overall costs.

A Technical Explanation of How a System Works:

Air conditioners employ the same operating principles and basic components as your home refrigerator. An air conditioner cools your home with a cold indoor coil called the evaporator. The condenser, a hot outdoor coil, releases the collected heat outside. The evaporator and condenser coils are serpentine tubing surrounded by aluminum fins. This tubing is usually made of copper. A pump, called the compressor, moves a heat transfer fluid (or refrigerant) between the evaporator and the condenser. The pump forces the refrigerant through the circuit of tubing and fins in the coils. The liquid refrigerant evaporates in the indoor evaporator coil, pulling heat out of indoor air and thereby cooling the home. The hot refrigerant gas is pumped outdoors into the condenser where it reverts back to a liquid giving up its heat to the air-flowing over the condenser’s metal tubing and fins.

Types of Air Conditioners

The basic types of air conditioners are room air conditioners, split-system central air conditioners, and packaged central air conditioners.

Room Air Conditioners
Room air conditioners cool rooms rather than the entire home. If they provide cooling only where they’re needed, room air conditioners are less expensive to operate than central units, even though their efficiency is generally lower than that of central air conditioners.

Smaller room air conditioners (i.e., those drawing less than 7.5 amps of electricity) can be plugged into any 15- or 20-amp, 115-volt household circuit that is not shared with any other major appliances. Larger room air conditioners (i.e., those drawing more than 7.5 amps) need their own dedicated 115-volt circuit. The largest models require a dedicated 230-volt circuit.
Central Air Conditioners
Central air conditioners circulate cool air through a system of supply and return ducts. Supply ducts and registers (i.e., openings in the walls, floors, or ceilings covered by grills) carry cooled air from the air conditioner to the home. This cooled air becomes warmer as it circulates through the home; then it flows back to the central air conditioner through return ducts and registers. A central air conditioner is either a split-system unit or a packaged unit.

In a split-system central air conditioner, an outdoor metal cabinet contains the condenser and compressor, and an indoor cabinet contains the evaporator. In many split-system air conditioners, this indoor cabinet also contains a furnace or the indoor part of a heat pump. The air conditioner’s evaporator coil is installed in the cabinet or main supply duct of this furnace or heat pump. If your home already has a furnace but no air conditioner, a split-system is the most economical central air conditioner to install.

In a packaged central air conditioner, the evaporator, condenser, and compressor are all located in one cabinet, which usually is placed on a roof or on a concrete slab next to the house’s foundation. This type of air conditioner also is used in small commercial buildings. Air supply and return ducts come from indoors through the home’s exterior wall or roof to connect with the packaged air conditioner, which is usually located outdoors. Packaged air conditioners often include electric heating coils or a natural gas furnace. This combination of air conditioner and central heater eliminates the need for a separate furnace indoors.

Evaporative Coolers
An evaporative cooler (also called a “swamp cooler”) is a completely different type of air conditioner that works well in hot, dry climates.

These units cool outdoor air by evaporation and blow it inside the building, causing a cooling effect much like the process when evaporating perspiration cools your body on a hot (but not overly humid) day. When operating an evaporative cooler, windows are opened part way to allow warm indoor air to escape as it is replaced by cooled air.

Evaporative coolers cost about one-half as much to install as central air conditioners and use about one-quarter as much energy. However, they require more frequent maintenance than refrigerated air conditioners and they’re suitable only for areas with low humidity.

Maintaining Existing Air Conditioners

Older air conditioners may still be able to offer years of relatively efficient use. However, making your older air conditioner last requires you to perform proper operation and maintenance.

Air Conditioning Problems

One of the most common air conditioning problems is improper operation. If your air conditioner is on, be sure to close your home’s windows and outside doors. Other common problems with existing air conditioners result from faulty installation, poor service procedures, and inadequate maintenance. Improper installation of your air conditioner can result in leaky ducts and low airflow.

Many times, the refrigerant charge (the amount of refrigerant in the system) does not match the manufacturer’s specifications. If proper refrigerant charging is not performed during installation, the performance and efficiency of the unit is impaired. Service technicians often fail to find refrigerant charging problems or even worsen existing problems by adding refrigerant to a system that is already full. Air conditioner manufacturers generally make rugged, high quality products. If your air conditioner fails, it is usually for one of the common reasons listed below:

Refrigerant Leaks
If your air conditioner is low on refrigerant, either it was undercharged at installation, or it leaks. If it leaks, simply adding refrigerant is not a solution. A trained technician should fix any leak, test the repair, and then charge the system with the correct amount of refrigerant. Remember that the performance and efficiency of your air conditioner is greatest when the refrigerant charge exactly matches the manufacturer’s specification, and is neither undercharged nor overcharged.

Inadequate Maintenance
If you allow filters and air conditioning coils to become dirty, the air conditioner will not work properly, and the compressor or fans are likely to fail prematurely.

Electric Control Failure
The compressor and fan controls can wear out, especially when the air conditioner turns on and off frequently, as is common when a system is oversized. Because corrosion of wire and terminals is also a problem in many systems, electrical connections and contacts should be checked during a professional service call.

Needed Maintenance
An air conditioner’s filters, coils, and fins require regular maintenance for the unit to function effectively and efficiently throughout its years of service. Neglecting necessary maintenance ensures a steady decline in air conditioning performance while energy use steadily increases.

Air Conditioner Filters
The most important maintenance task that will ensure the efficiency of your air conditioner is to routinely replace or clean its filters. Clogged, dirty filters block normal airflow and reduce a system’s efficiency significantly. With normal airflow obstructed, air that bypasses the filter may carry dirt directly into the evaporator coil and impair the coil’s heat-absorbing capacity. Filters are located somewhere along the return duct’s length. Common filter locations are in walls, ceilings, furnaces, or in the air conditioner itself.

Some types of filters are reusable; others must be replaced. They are available in a variety of types and efficiencies. Clean or replace your air conditioning system’s filter or filters every month or two during the cooling season. Filters may need more frequent attention if the air conditioner is in constant use, is subjected to dusty conditions, or you have fur-bearing pets in the house.

Air Conditioner Coils
The air conditioner’s evaporator coil and condenser coil collect dirt over their months and years of service. A clean filter prevents the evaporator coil from soiling quickly. In time, however, the evaporator coil will still collect dirt. This dirt reduces air-flow and insulates the coil which reduces its ability to absorb heat. Therefore, your evaporator coil should be checked every year and cleaned as necessary.

Outdoor condenser coils can also become very dirty if the outdoor environment is dusty or if there is foliage nearby. You can easily see the condenser coil and notice if dirt is collecting on its fins.

You should minimize dirt and debris near the condenser unit. Your dryer vents, falling leaves, and lawn mower are all potential sources of dirt and debris. Cleaning the area around the coil, removing any debris, and trimming foliage back at least 2 feet allow for adequate airflow around the condenser.

Coil Fins
The aluminum fins on evaporator and condenser coils are easily bent and can block air-flow through the coil. Air conditioning wholesalers sell a tool called a “fin comb” that will comb these fins back into nearly original condition.

Sealing and Insulating Air Ducts
An enormous waste of energy occurs when cooled air escapes from supply ducts or when hot attic air leaks into return ducts. Recent studies indicate that 10% to 30% of the conditioned air in an average central air conditioning system escapes from the ducts.

For central air conditioning to be efficient, ducts must be airtight. Hiring a competent professional service technician to detect and correct duct leaks is a good investment, since leaky ducts may be difficult to find without experience and test equipment. Ducts must be sealed with duct “mastic.” The old standby of duct tape is many times ineffective for sealing ducts.

Obstructions can impair the efficiency of a duct system almost as much as leaks. You should be careful not to obstruct the flow of air from supply or return registers with furniture, drapes, or tightly fitted interior doors. Dirty filters and clogged evaporator coils can also be major obstructions to airflow.

The large temperature difference between attics and ducts makes heat conduction through ducts almost as big a problem as air leakage and obstructions. Ducts in attics should be insulated heavily in addition to being made airtight.

Buying a New Air Conditioner for Your Home

Today’s best air conditioners use 30% to 50% less energy to produce the same amount of cooling as air conditioners made in the mid 1970s. Even if your air conditioner is only 10 years old, you may save 20% to 40% of your cooling energy costs by replacing it with a newer, more efficient model.

Sizing your Air Conditioners
Air conditioners are rated by the number of British Thermal Units (Btu) of heat they can remove per hour. Another common rating term for air conditioning size is the “ton,” which is 12,000 Btu per hour.

How Big should your Air Conditioner Be?
The size of an air conditioner depends on:

1. how large your home is and how many windows it has;
2. how much shade is on your home’s windows, walls, and roof;
3. how much insulation is in your home’s ceiling and walls;
4. how much air leaks into your home from the outside; and
5. how much heat the occupants and appliances in your home generate.

An air conditioner’s efficiency, performance, durability, and initial cost depend on matching its size to the above factors.

Make sure you buy the correct size of air conditioner. Two groups—the Air Conditioning Contractors of America (ACCA) and the American Society of Heating, Refrigerating, and Air Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE)—publish calculation procedures for sizing central air conditioners. Reputable air conditioning contractors will use one of these procedures, often performed with the aid of a computer, to size your new central air conditioner.

Be aware that a large air conditioner will not provide the best cooling. Buying an oversized air conditioner penalizes you in the following ways.

It costs more to buy a larger air conditioner than you need. The larger-than-necessary air conditioner cycles on and off more frequently, reducing its efficiency. Frequent cycling makes indoor temperatures fluctuate more and results in a less comfortable environment. Frequent cycling also inhibits moisture removal. In humid climates, removing moisture is essential for acceptable comfort. In addition, this cycling wears out the compressor and electrical parts more rapidly. A larger air conditioner uses more electricity and creates added demands on electrical generation and delivery systems.

Air Conditioner Efficiency
Each air conditioner has an energy-efficiency rating that lists how many Btu per hour are removed for each watt of power it draws. For room air conditioners, this efficiency rating is the Energy Efficiency Ratio, or EER. For central air conditioners, it is the Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio, or SEER. These ratings are posted on an Energy Guide Label, which must be conspicuously attached to all new air conditioners. Many air conditioner manufacturers are participants in the voluntary EnergyStar ® labeling program (see Source List in this publication). EnergyStar ®-labeled appliances mean that they have high EER and SEER ratings.

In general, new air conditioners with higher EERs or SEERs sport higher price tags. However, the higher initial cost of an energy-efficient model will be repaid to you several times during its life span. Your utility company may encourage the purchase of a more efficient air conditioner by rebating some or all of the price difference. Buy the most efficient air conditioner you can afford, especially if you use (or think you will use) an air conditioner frequently and/or if your electricity rates are high.

Room Air Conditioners—EER-
Room air conditioners generally range from 5,500 Btu per hour to 14,000 Btu per hour. National appliance standards require room air conditioners built after January 1, 1990, to have an EER of 8.0 or greater. Select a room air conditioner with an EER of at least 9.0 if you live in a mild climate. If you live in a hot climate, select one with an EER over 10.

The Association of Home Appliance Manufacturers reports that the average EER of room air conditioners rose 47% from 1972 to 1991. If you own a 1970s-vintage room air conditioner with an EER of 5 and you replace it with a new one with an EER of 10, you will cut your air conditioning energy costs in half.
Central Air Conditioners—SEER-

National minimum standards for central air conditioners require a SEER of 9.7 and 13.0, for single-package and split-systems, respectively. But you do not need to settle for the minimum standard—there is a wide selection of units with SEERs of 18.

Before 1979, the SEERs of central air conditioners ranged from 4.5 to 8.0. Replacing a 1970s-era central air conditioner with a SEER of 6 with a new unit having a SEER of 13 will cut your air conditioning costs more than in half.

Sound Considerations
The Sound level of the out door section may be important to you do to the units location, or proximity to your neighbor’s window. Most units today have sound ratings that are measured in decibel ratings.

What to Look for in Professional Service
When your air conditioner needs more than the regular maintenance described previously, hire a professional service technician. A well-trained technician will find and fix problems in your air conditioning system. However, not all service technicians are competent. Incompetent service technicians forsake proper diagnosis and perform only minimal stop-gap measures.

Insist that the Technician:
1. check for correct amount of refrigerant;
2. test for refrigerant leaks using a leak detector;
3. capture any refrigerant that must be evacuated from the system, instead of illegally releasing it to the atmosphere;
4. check for and seal duct leakage in any part of your system that runs in the attic, crawl, or garage
5. measure air-flow through the evaporator coil;
6. verify the correct electric control sequence and make sure that the heating system and cooling system cannot operate simultaneously;
7. inspect electric terminals, clean and tighten connections, and apply a non-conductive coating if necessary;
8. oil motors and check belts for tightness and wear;
9. check the accuracy of the thermostat.

How to Choose a Contractor
Choosing a contractor may be the most important and difficult task in buying a new central air conditioning system. Ask prospective contractors for recent references. If you are replacing your central air conditioner, tell your contractor what you liked and did not like about the old system. If the system failed, ask the contractor to find out why. The best time to fix existing problems is when a new system is being installed.

When designing your new air conditioning system, the contractor you choose should:

1. use a written calculation procedure or computer program to size the air conditioner;
2. provide a written contract listing the main points of your installation that includes the results of the cooling load calculation;
3. give you a written warranty on equipment and workmanship.

Avoid making your decision solely on the basis of price. The quality of the installation should be your highest priority, because quality will determine energy cost, comfort, and durability.

Installation and Location of Air Conditioners
If your air conditioner is installed correctly, or if major installation problems are found and fixed, it will perform efficiently for years with only minor routine maintenance. However, many air conditioners are not installed correctly. As an unfortunate result, modern energy-efficient air conditioners can perform almost as poorly as older inefficient models.

Be sure that your contractor performs the following procedures when installing a new central air conditioning system:

1. allows adequate indoor space for the installation, maintenance, and repair of the new system, and installs an access door in the furnace or duct to provide a way to clean the evaporator coil.
2. uses a duct-sizing methodology such as the Air Conditioning Contractors of America (ACCA) Manual D.
3. ensures there are enough supply registers to deliver cool air and enough return air registers to carry warm house air back to the air conditioner.
4. installs duct work within the conditioned space, not in the attic, wherever possible – insulating it where it must be run outside the treated structure.
5. seals all ducts with duct mastic and heavily insulates attic ducts.
6. locates the condensing unit where its noise will not keep you or your neighbors awake at night, if possible.
7. places the condensing unit in a shady spot, if possible, which can reduce your air conditioning costs by 1% to 2%.
8. verifies that the newly installed air conditioner has the exact refrigerant charge and air-flow rate specified by the manufacturer.
9. locates the thermostat away from heat sources, such as windows, or supply registers.

If you are replacing an older or failed split system, be sure that the evaporator coil is replaced with a new one that exactly matches the condenser coil in the new condensing unit. (The air conditioner’s efficiency will likely not improve if the existing evaporator coil is left in place; in fact, the old coil could cause the new compressor to fail prematurely.)

If you install a new room air conditioner, try to:

1. locate the air conditioner in a window or wall area near the center of the room and on the shadiest side of the house.
2. minimize air leakage by fitting the room air conditioner snugly into its opening and sealing gaps with a foam weather stripping material.

Paying attention to your air conditioning system saves you money and reduces environmental pollution. Notice whether your existing system is running properly, and maintain it regularly. Or, if you need to purchase a new air conditioner, be sure it is sized and installed correctly and has a good EER or SEER rating.

Using Your Air Conditioner
Unless, your contractor has sized your air conditioner to maximize humidity control instead of just cooling the air temperature, an air conditioner will cool the air in your home fairly quickly. For economical operation, turn it on only when your home is occupied. You may consider installing a programmable thermostat. These allow you to set the time when the air conditioner will turn on before you arrive home from work on a hot day. Contact EREC (see Source List) for the fact sheet Automatic and Programmable Thermostats. During the day, keep the drapes or blinds closed on windows that face east, south, and west. This will help reduce solar heat gain into your home.

Source List
There are many groups offering information on air conditioning. The following groups are just a few that can assist you in increasing your air conditioning efficiency. Some of these organizations provide only materials appropriate for professionals in the air conditioning industry.

  • Air Conditioning and Refrigeration Institute (ARI) 4301 N. Fairfax Drive, Suite 425 Arlington, VA 22203 (703) 524-8800 Fax: (703) 528-3816 www.ari.org ARI represents manufacturers of air conditioning, refrigeration, and heating equipment and has consumer brochures on a variety of topics.
  • American Society of Heating, Refrigeration, and Air Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE) 1791 Tullie Circle, N.E. Atlanta, GA 30329 (404) 636-8400 Fax: (404) 321-5478 www.ashrae.org ASHRAE is organized solely for the purpose of advancing the arts and science of heating, ventilation, air conditioning, and refrigeration for the public’s benefit through research, standards writing, continuing education, and publications.
  • Air Conditioning Contractors of America (ACCA) 1513 16th Street NW Washington, DC 20036 (202) 483-9370 Fax: (202) 234-4721 www.acca.org The Air Conditioning Contractors of America is the most active and widely recognized organization representing contractors in the heating, ventilation, air conditioning, and refrigeration (HVACR) industry.
  • EnergyStar ® Program 1-888-STAR-YES e-mail: [email protected] www.energystar.gov ENERGY STAR ®-labeled products, including heating and cooling equipment, use less energy than other products and save you money on utility bills. These products are made by all major manufacturers and are available at stores everywhere.
  • Florida Solar Energy Center (FSEC) 1679 Clear Lake Road Cocoa, FL 32922 (407) 638-1000 Fax: (407) 638-1010 www.fsec.ucf.edu FSEC provides information on building in hot, humid climates.

For more information about cooling and air conditioning, as well as on a wealth of other energy-efficiency topics, contact:

The Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy Clearinghouse (EREC) P.O. Box 3048 Merrifield, VA 22116 (800) 363-3732 (800-DOE-EREC) Fax: (703) 893-0400 E-mail: [email protected] www.eren.doe.gov/consumerinfo EREC provides free general and technical information to the public on many topics and technologies pertaining to energy efficiency and renewable energy.

Reading List

The following publications provide more information on air conditioning. The list does not cover all the available books, reports, and articles on air conditioning, nor is the mention of any publication a recommendation or endorsement.

  • ASHRAE Journal, American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and Air Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE), 1791 Tullie Circle N.E., Atlanta, GA 30329-2305, monthly trade magazine.
  • “Consumer Guide to Home Energy Savings”, A. Wilson and J. Morrill, American Council for an Energy-Efficient Economy, 1001 Connecticut Ave. NW, Suite 801, Washington, DC 20036, 1998.
  • Home Energy, The Magazine of Residential Energy Conservation, 2124 Kitteredge, #95, Berkeley, CA 94704, monthly trade magazine. For example, the May/June 1995 issue had an article about properly sizing air conditioning systems.
  • Consumer Reports, The Consumers Union of the United States, Inc., 101 Truman Avenue, Yonkers, NY 10703, (800) 234-1645 (subscriptions and back issues). “Chill Out: A Guide to Air Conditioning,” (63:6) pp. 36-42, June 1998. “Cool It (Room/Window Air Conditioners)” (64:6) pp. 35-37, June 1999.

This document was produced for the U.S. Department of Energy (DOE) by the National Renewable Energy Laboratory (NREL), a DOE national laboratory. The document was produced by the Information Services Program, under the DOE Office of Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy. The Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy Clearinghouse (EREC) is operated by NCI Information Systems, Inc., for NREL / DOE. The statements contained herein are based on information known to EREC and NREL at the time of printing. No recommendation or endorsement of any product or service is implied if mentioned by EREC.

Hot Water Costs & Cost Cutters

Posted on by T.F. O'Brien Cooling & Heating

Hot Water Costs & Cost-Cutters

Some ways to save on water-heating bills require greater financial investments than others. You may wish to consider the no- or low-cost options before making large purchases. Also allow for circumstances that may be unique to your household when deciding on the appropriate options (e.g., a small-capacity washing machine could meet the needs of a one person household efficiently). Although it is not feasible to eliminate water heating in your home, it is possible to substantially reduce water-heating costs without sacrificing comfort and convenience.
Figuring out how much you spend to heat your water

The next time you pay your utility bill, try one simple calculation. Divide the total amount by seven. The result is the amount you spend to heat your water. (If you receive separate utility bills for gas and electricity, use the gas bill for this calculation if you have a gas water heater; use the electric bill if you have an electric water heater.)

Of course, you may think this cost is a small price to pay for the convenience of a hot shower. But during the course of a year, this cost adds up. And when you consider that 95 million households in this country pay the same percentage, it is easy to see how much money—and energy—is used to heat water.

Several measures can help you decrease water-heating costs in your home. Some specific actions include reducing the amount of hot water used, making your water-heating system more energy efficient, and using off-peak power to heat water.

Reducing the amount of hot water used:

Generally, four destination points in the home are recognized as end uses for hot water: faucets, showers, dishwashers, and washing machines. Now, you do not have to take cold showers, dine on dirty dishes, or wear dirty clothes to reduce your hotwater consumption. Less radical measures are available that will be virtually unnoticeable once you apply them.

Faucets and Showers:

Simply repairing leaks in faucets and showers can save hot water. A leak of one drip per second can cost $1 per month, yet could be repaired in a few minutes for less than that. And some apparently insignificant steps, when practiced routinely at your household, could have significant results. For example, turning the hot-water faucet off while shaving or brushing your teeth, as opposed to letting the water run, can also reduce water-heating costs. Another option is limiting the amount of time you spend in the shower. Other actions may require a small investment of time and money. Installing low-flow showerheads and faucet aerators can save significant amounts of hot water. Low-flow showerheads can reduce hot water consumption for bathing by 30%, yet still provide a strong, invigorating spray.

Faucet aerators, when applied in commercial and multifamily buildings where water is constantly circulated, can also reduce water-heating energy consumption. Older showerheads deliver 4 to 5 gallons (15.1 to 18.9 liters) of water per minute. Although a low-flow showerhead delivers slightly less water than a standard showerhead, the spray can still be invigorating.

[FS 204 January 1995] sets maximum water flow rates at 2.5 gallons (9.5 liters) per minute at a standard residential water pressure of 80 pounds per square inch (552 kilopascals).

A quick test can help you determine if your shower is a good candidate for a showerhead replacement: Turn on the shower to the normal pressure you use, hold a bucket that has been marked in gallon increments under the spray, and time how many seconds it takes to fill the bucket to the 1-gallon (3.8-liter) mark. If it takes less than 20 seconds, you could benefit from a low-flow showerhead. A top quality, low-flow showerhead will cost $10 to $20 and pay for itself in energy saved within 4 months. Lower quality showerheads may simply restrict water flow, which often results in poor performance.

Because of the different uses of bathroom and kitchen faucets, you may need to have different water flow rates in each location. For bathroom faucets, aerators that deliver 0.5 to 1 gallon (1.9 to 3.8 liters) of water per minute may be sufficient. Kitchen faucets may require a higher flow rate of 2 to 4 gallons (7.6 to 15.1 liters) per minute if you regularly fill the sink for washing dishes. On the other hand, if you tend to let the water run when washing dishes, the lower flow rate of 0.5 to 1 gallon per minute may be more appropriate. Some aerators come with shut-off valves that allow you to stop the flow of water without affecting the temperature.

Automatic Dishwashers:

A relatively common assumption is that washing dishes by hand saves hot water. However, washing dishes by hand several times a day could be more expensive than operating some automatic dishwashers. If properly used, an efficient dishwasher can consume less energy than washing dishes by hand, particularly when you only operate the dishwasher with full loads.

The biggest cost of operating a dishwasher comes from the energy required to heat the water before it ever makes it to the machine. Heating water for an automatic dishwasher can represent about 80% of the energy required to run this appliance. Average dishwashers use 8 to 14 gallons (30.3 to 53 liters) of water for a complete wash cycle and require a water temperature of 140 °F (60 °C) for optimum cleaning.

But, setting your water heater so high could result in excessive standby heat loss. This type of heat loss occurs because water is constantly heated in the storage tank, even when no hot water is used. Furthermore, a water heater temperature of 120 °F (48.9 °C) is sufficient for other uses of hot water in the home. The question, then, is must you give up effective cleaning for hotwater energy savings? The answer is no.

A “booster” heater can increase the temperature of the water entering the dishwasher to the 140 °F recommended for cleaning. Some dishwashers have built-in boosters that will automatically raise the water temperature, while others require manual selection before the wash cycle begins. A booster heater can add about $30 to the cost of a new dishwasher but should pay for itself in water-heating energy savings in about 1 year if you also lower your water heater temperature. Reducing the water heater temperature is not advisable, however, if your dishwasher does not have a booster heater.

Another feature that reduces hot-water use in dishwashers is the availability of cycle selections. Shorter cycles require less water, thereby reducing the energy cost. The most efficient dishwasher currently on the market can cost half as much to operate as the most inefficient model.

If you are planning to purchase a new dishwasher, check the EnergyGuide labels and compare the approximate yearly energy costs among brands. Dishwashers fall into one of two categories—compact capacity or standard capacity. Although compact capacity dishwashers may appear to be more energy efficient, they hold fewer dishes and may force you to use the appliance more frequently than you would use a standard-capacity model. In this case, your energy costs could be higher than with the standard-capacity dishwasher.

Turning the hot-water faucet off while shaving or brushing your teeth, as opposed to letting the water run, can reduce water-heating costs. An efficient automatic dishwasher can consume less energy than washing dishes by hand, particularly when you only operate the dishwasher with full loads.

Washing Machines:

Like dishwashers, much of the cost—up to 90%—of operating washing machines is associated with the energy needed to heat the water. Unlike dishwashers, washing machines do not require a minimum temperature for optimum cleaning. Either cold or warm water can be used for washing most laundry loads; cold water is always sufficient for rinsing. Make sure you follow the cold-water washing instructions for your particular laundry detergent. Washing only full loads is another good rule of thumb for reducing hot-water consumption in clothes washers. As you would for dishwashers, consult the EnergyGuide labels when shopping for a new washing machine. Inefficient washing machines can cost three times as much to operate as efficient machines. Select a machine that allows you to adjust the water temperature and water levels for the size of the load. Also, front-loading machines use less water and, consequently, less energy than top loaders.

However, in this country, front loaders are not as widely available as top loaders. Keep in mind that the capacity of front loaders may be smaller than that of most top-loading machines.

Smaller capacity washing machines often have better EnergyGuide ratings. However, a reduced capacity might cause you to increase the number of loads you wash and possibly increase your energy costs.
Faucets, showerheads, dishwashers, and washing machines are only destination points for hot water in your home. The journey of your hot water before it reaches these outlets can be fraught with opportunities for energy losses. Fortunately, you can reduce the incidence of water heat loss from the point of departure to the point of arrival by applying a few basic measures.

A Winter Tune-Up Prevents Equipment Failure

Posted on by T.F. O'Brien Cooling & Heating

Your household heating system contains many complex components, all of which can be damaged by neglect, the build-up of dirt and general use during the cold winter months. Letting your system fall into neglect can cause energy inefficiency and even premature system failure.

Your heating system is an investment. If you take care of it, it will continue to take care of you and your family. One of the most important steps you can take is having experienced professionals perform regular maintenance, especially in preparation for the harsh New York winters. At T.F. O’Brien & Co. we believe in the importance of a precision heating tune-up for every HVAC system.

There are many factors that cause poor performance in your central heating system. Dirt and dust particles collect on the equipment. Soot and carbon deposits build up, especially around the burner and in the combustion chamber. This area is also the site of scaling on equipment. Another problem is iron oxide (rust), naturally produced over time and everyday use. The particles form a black sludge that sticks to interior surfaces and corrodes valves, pumps, and more. During our heating tune-up our highly trained technicians will provide a thorough inspection for dirt, dust, rust, corrosion and all risk factors, correcting them at your discretion.

Included in our heating tune-up, our experienced technicians will test the safety of your system’s operating controls, monitoring for combustion leaks and carbon monoxide, as well as make any necessary adjustments to your thermostat, wiring and connections.

Ensuring your system is in excellent shape for the winter will prolong its lifespan, and can keep your energy costs down by as much as 20%. This not only means you save money, but you also use less energy and contribute less to greenhouse gases. Let our professionals ensure all the components of your system are performing at maximum efficiency and safety so you and your family are not left out in the cold.

T.F. O’Brien services the Long Island, New York area.

Our goal is to help educate our customers about energy and home comfort issues (specific to HVAC systems).  For more information about preventive maintenance and other HVAC topics, please download our free  Home Comfort Resource guide.

It May Sound Obvious, But Don’t Block Your Air Returns

Posted on by T.F. O'Brien Cooling & Heating
T.F. O’Brien can help ensure your
air ducts are getting proper circulation.
Call or click here:
516.488.1800

Most residential cooling and heating systems operate as closed-loop systems. In a closed-loop system, air returns play an essential role, and it is important not to block them.

Blocking a cool air return means a risk of freezing the air conditioner coils, causing a restriction of air flow. In short, blocking air returns means a lack of air circulation.  Energystar.gov recommends checking air returns for leaks; improperly sealed ducts impede air flow. For the same reason, it is important to allow air returns to breathe.

So where are air return ducts typically found? They are usually located on ceilings or in a hallway. In the southern U.S. where it remains warm for a large part of the year, air return ducts take warm air from inside the home and transfer it outside.

Many homes are improperly fitted with return air ducts or simply don’t have enough of them, making it essential that each existing air return works to its full potential.

Take care in designing your rooms to avoid blocking air returns. Place large pieces of furniture such as couches, chairs and love seats at least 10 inches from air ducts. If possible, avoid setting up cabinets, entertainment centers or pianos directly next to walls on which air ducts are present.

Taking these basic steps will ensure that your HVAC system does not overwork itself, potentially saving you from costly and untimely repairs.

T.F. O’Brien services the Long Island, New York area.

Our goal is to help educate our customers about energy and home comfort issues (specific to HVAC systems).  For more information about preventive maintenance and other HVAC topics, please download our free  Home Comfort Resource guide.
To learn more, just give us a call at 516.488.1800, and we will be happy to help.

Download T.F. O’Brien’s Free Home Comfort Solutions Guide

Posted on by T.F. O'Brien Cooling & Heating

We hope you’ve been following our blog each week, and getting your HVAC questions answered right here.   Whether it’s how to change a filter, improve your indoor air quality or size your replacement HVAC equipment, we want to make sure that you get the facts you need to make informed decisions about your home comfort.

Another handy resource for homeowners is our  Home Comfort Solutions Guide. This free download is available right here on our blog page, so be sure to check it out.   Inside, you’ll find a wealth of information about how to get the most from your heating and cooling equipment.

Here’s a sneak peek at some of the topics covered in our Guide:

  • Your house as a system- Your HVAC equipment works in conjunction with many other factors in your home to ensure your comfort.   Each piece of the puzzle is critical.
  • HVAC controls- Programmable thermostats and zoned systems are two ways to gain control over your home comfort and your energy bills.
  • Replacement options- Is it time for a replacement?   Which system is right for you?
  • Hiring an HVAC contractor- What to look for, questions to ask and signs that you’ve found the best contractor for you.
  • Equipment installation- The best HVAC equipment available won’t function properly if it’s installed incorrectly.   Find out how to tell if your contractor is doing the job right.
  • Maintaining your equipment- Regular professional maintenance can prevent equipment failure and early system breakdown.   Learn about how your contractor keeps your system running smoothly.

Our Home Comfort Solutions Guide also provides some important resources for homeowners, where you can get more information about maximizing the energy efficiency of your HVAC system to save money on your energy bills.

So take advantage of this free download today!   And be sure to ask us how we can help you get more from your heating and cooling system, with products and services designed to give you ideal home comfort, clean, healthy indoor air and greater energy savings.

Tankless Water Heater Facts for Homeowners

Posted on by T.F. O'Brien Cooling & Heating

With an increasing interest in energy  efficient appliances for the home, tankless water heaters are often viewed as an attractive, cost-saving option. While conventional water heaters utilize storage tanks  to hold  the heated water for use, energy loss can occur when these units are operating in standby mode.   Tankless water heaters, on the other hand, heat the water only as it is needed. This saves money by eliminating the potential for energy loss and the associated costs. In fact, ENERGY STAR® estimates that a typical family can save $100 or more per year with an ENERGY STAR qualified tankless water heater.

So, just how do tankless water heaters work? When the hot water tap is engaged, cold water flows into a heat exchanger located inside the tankless unit. If the unit is electric, an electric element heats the water. If it is a gas-fueled unit, a gas burner  provides the energy to heat  the water. It is because of this method that  tankless water heaters are able to  provide an almost continual supply of hot water.

Tankless  water heaters typically  provide hot water at a rate of 2 to 5 gallons (7.6 to 15.2 liters) per minute. Therefore, it is important to first consider how hot water will be utilized before purchasing a tankless unit for your home or business. For example, point-of-use units, or even smaller tankless water heaters, may not be able to keep up with the demand of multiple appliances running at once. For this reason, you may wish to consider installing separate tankless water heaters, or even a whole-house unit to ensure the highest efficiency.

Tankless water heaters  can cost more than conventional storage water heaters. You may find, however,  that any initial cost increase is generally off-set by the energy savings tankless units can provide.

T.F. O’Brien services the Long Island, New York area.

Our goal is to help educate our customers about energy and home comfort issues (specific to HVAC systems).  For more information about preventive maintenance and other HVAC topics, please download our free  Home Comfort Resource guide.

How HVAC Zoning Systems Provide Home Comfort

Posted on by T.F. O'Brien Cooling & Heating

It seems like all of us have a different comfort zone when it comes to the heat and air conditioning system in our home.   However, there is a way to solve this issue and it satisfies everyone’s needs. It is called zoning systems. Basically what this system does is allow you to heat or cool certain “zones” or areas in your home to different temperatures, based on your needs.

Zoning works with both forced air and hot water heating systems, and offers customized comfort for every area of your home.

Zoning operates through a group of components. The first of these is the motorized dampers. These open and close based on the requirements of the zone thermostats – and zone thermostats are another component.  Standard thermostats are used. When each zone is divided in the house it uses its own thermostat to control the temperature. for the individual zone.

The zone thermostats, along with the dampers, are wired into a central control panel. The panel is then connected to the thermostat connection on the HVAC unit. Where other systems use one thermostat the zoning systems has a master control panel. This allows the until to be operated by multiple thermostats.

When any of the thermostats make a request for heating or cooling the panel accepts the call from that zone. This zone will then be serviced while the other zones remain at their present temperature until their call is made to be serviced. Once the control panel receives the request it then services that  next specific zone.

Most homes require either a two or a four zone system. If the home has two zones it is basically divided as follows: one zone covers the living room and kitchen; the second zone would include the bedrooms and bathrooms. There are optional ways of zoning and this depends basically on the size and configuration of the home or office.

Zoning systems are not only convenient, they also offer more efficiency. This efficiency equates to a major savings on future  energy bills.

T.F. O’Brien services the Long Island, New York area.

Our goal is to help educate our customers about energy and home comfort issues (specific to HVAC systems).  For more information about preventive maintenance and other HVAC topics, please download our free  Home Comfort Resource guide.

Air Filters: Change Regularly and Save Money

Posted on by T.F. O'Brien Cooling & Heating

Performing the appropriate regular maintenance on air filters is vital to saving money and conserving energy. All of your heating, cooling, and ventilating (HVAC) systems need to have clean and functional air filters in order to run efficiently.

Your programmable thermostat  might have an indicator that lets you know when it is time to change filters. Pay attention to this alert and take care of it promptly. If left unchecked, a dirty filter can block the air that is supposed to be coming though the ducts, heater, or air conditioner. You can save energy by making sure this does not happen.

Dust and dirt can easily build up in your HVAC systems if the air filters are soiled or damaged. Cleaning and changing them regularly can help you to save thousands of dollars on avoidable repairs.

Energy and money can be saved by regular HVAC system maintenance. Your monthly utility bills can be lowered if you tune-up your equipment and keep the filters working at maximum capacity. Dirty air conditioners, dusty ducts and clogged heating vents waste energy and increase usage costs. It is not enough that these systems are operational, but they must work efficiently in order to save energy, and therefore save you money.

Your contractor should show you where the air filters for your system are located, and how to clean and replace them. During the winter and summer months when your heating and cooling systems are used the most, check the filters on a monthly basis to ensure the most cost effective and environmentally friendly usage. And, don’t hesitate to contact us if you need help!

T.F. O’Brien services the Long Island, New York area.

Our goal is to help educate our customers about energy and home comfort issues (specific to HVAC systems).  For more information about preventive maintenance and other HVAC topics, please download our free  Home Comfort Resource guide.

Homeowner Tips for Saving Energy and Money

Posted on by T.F. O'Brien Cooling & Heating

Now more than ever, a penny saved is a penny earned. Homeowners everywhere are doing everything they can to reduce unnecessary energy costs at home by finding ways to reduce energy use and get better energy savings.

Start with energy-saving water and light fixtures. Look for  Energy Starcertification on light bulbs and water faucet filters/regulators. The U.S. Government has several websites available for searching all  Energy Star products [www.energystar.gov], as well as in-depth home energy savers tips and renewable energy resources.

Remember, if you are not spending time in a room, turn off the lights! Check all of your electrical sockets, is there something plugged in and not being used? Unplug it! Wherever possible try to condense electrical equipment into a power strip. So when nobody is around and there’s no need for electricity running through my TV, DVD player, computer, cell phone charger, or stereo, it only takes one flip of the switch and you’re saving money.

Check all windows from inside and outside, be sure there’s a tight seal of caulk around the window casing and trim. If you haven’t upgraded your windows and live in an older home with single pane windows, one word, weatherize. During winter, you can heat seal plastic onto the windows and use insulated curtains, as well.

Energy savings in the envelope of your home may require assistance from a contractor, but there are two things to remember, air flow and insulation. The U.S. Department of Energy states that heating and cooling systems account for approximately 56% of our home energy costs. Insulation protects your interior air temperature, and is mandatory code on all exterior walls for homes, but adding on an initial layer of spray foam will guarantee to seal all the cracks.

Also never neglect your ventilation system, have it cleaned and inspected twice a year and replace air filters monthly. Dirt, dust, mold and other contaminants are the enemy and will deplete your finances and health in the long run.

If you want more information about ways that you can achieve greater energy savings, contact us.   We can help you start saving today!

T.F. O’Brien services the Long Island, New York area.

Our goal is to help educate our customers about energy and home comfort issues (specific to HVAC systems).  For more information about preventive maintenance and other HVAC topics, please download our free  Home Comfort Resource guide.