Kerry’s Blog

Condensate Pumps are a Good Choice for High Efficiency Furnaces

Posted on by T.F. O'Brien Cooling & Heating

When we talk about furnaces, which is apt to happen this time of year, you hear the word “coefficiency” a lot.  The value of having and maintaining  high efficiency  furnaces is clear; they function longer and cost less.

However, even the highest  efficiency furnace  comes with the same potential issue  many heating and cooling mechanisms  have: how to manage  the excess water that results from  normal furnace operation. As water continues to rise and  fill the pan, it doesn’t take long to realize this could really cause problems for the furnace, and  the home.

A few  options:

  • Purchase a high efficiency furnace with a built-in condensate pump
  • Continue using tubes and hoses to drain excess water
  • Purchase and install a condensate pump

Purchasing a new furnace can be  costly and unnecessary if excess water is your sole concern. Getting rid of the tubes and hoses is always a good idea, of course.

For more information,
Call or click here:
516.488.1800

So, that leaves us with installing a condensate pump as the better option. Condensate pumps are used to effectively direct and remove excess water from  high efficiency furnaces (as well as humidifiers and A/C units). The pump takes the place of hoses that can and do rupture, and  seamlessly transfers water to the appropriate drainage pipe.

The decision is yours to make, but the professionals at  T.F. O’Brien are happy to offer expert advice or answer questions. Ensuring  proper water drainage  for high efficiency furnaces is good for your furnace, and good for your home.

T.F. O’Brien services the Long Island, New York area.

Our goal is to help educate our customers about energy and home comfort issues (specific to HVAC systems).  For more information about preventive maintenance and other HVAC topics, please download our free  Home Comfort Resource guide.

A Brief Guide to Mold, Moisture and Your Home

Posted on by T.F. O'Brien Cooling & Heating

Humidity and Warmth Promote Organic Growth

Here’s some information from the EPA about mold: how it grows, what it does, and what you can do about it:

Mold Basics

  • The key to mold control is moisture control.
  • If mold is a problem in your home, you should clean up the mold promptly and fix the water problem.
  • It is important to dry water-damaged areas and items within 24-48 hours to prevent mold growth.

Why is mold growing in my home?

Molds are part of the natural environment. Outdoors, molds play a part in nature by breaking down dead organic matter such as fallen leaves and dead trees, but indoors, mold growth should be avoided. Molds reproduce by means of tiny spores; the spores are invisible to the naked eye and float through outdoor and indoor air. Mold may begin growing indoors when mold spores land on surfaces that are wet. There are many types of mold, and none of them will grow without water or moisture.

Can mold cause health problems?

Molds are usually not a problem indoors, unless mold spores land on a wet or damp spot and begin growing. Molds have the potential to cause health problems. Molds produce allergens (substances that can cause allergic reactions), irritants, and in some cases, potentially toxic substances (mycotoxins). Inhaling or touching mold or mold spores may cause allergic reactions in sensitive individuals. Allergic responses include hay fever-type symptoms, such as sneezing, runny nose, red eyes, and skin rash (dermatitis). Allergic reactions to mold are common. They can be immediate or delayed. Molds can also cause asthma attacks in people with asthma who are allergic to mold. In addition, mold exposure can irritate the eyes, skin, nose, throat, and lungs of both mold-allergic and non-allergic people. Symptoms other than the allergic and irritant types are not commonly reported as a result of inhaling mold. Research on mold and health effects is ongoing. This brochure provides a brief overview; it does not describe all potential health effects related to mold exposure. For more detailed information consult a health professional. You may also wish to consult your state or local health department.

How do I get rid of mold?

It is impossible to get rid of all mold and mold spores indoors; some mold spores will be found floating through the air and in house dust. The mold spores will not grow if moisture is not present. Indoor mold growth can and should be prevented or controlled by controlling moisture indoors. If there is mold growth in your home, you must clean up the mold and fix the water problem. If you clean up the mold, but don’t fix the water problem, then, most likely, the mold problem will come back.

Mold Cleanup

Who should do the cleanup?

Who should do the cleanup depends on a number of factors. One consideration is the size of the mold problem. If the moldy area is less than about 10 square feet (less than roughly a 3 ft. by 3 ft. patch), in most cases, you can handle the job yourself, following the guidelines below. However:

  • If there has been a lot of water damage, and/or mold growth covers more than 10 square feet, consult the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) guide: Mold Remediation in Schools and Commercial Buildings. Although focused on schools and commercial buildings, this document is applicable to other building types. It is available free by calling the EPA Indoor Air Quality Information Clearinghouse at (800) 438-4318, or on the Internet at epa.gov/iaq/molds/mold_remediation.html.
  • If you choose to hire a contractor (or other professional service provider) to do the cleanup, make sure the contractor has experience cleaning up mold. Check references and ask the contractor to follow the recommendations in EPA’s Mold Remediation in Schools and Commercial Buildings, the guidelines of the American Conference of Governmental Industrial Hygenists (ACGIH), or other guidelines from professional or government organizations.
  • If you suspect that the heating/ventilation/air conditioning (HVAC) system may be contaminated with mold (it is part of an identified moisture problem, for instance, or there is mold near the intake to the system), consult EPA’s guide Should You Have the Air Ducts in Your Home Cleaned? before taking further action. Do not run the HVAC system if you know or suspect that it is contaminated with mold – it could spread mold throughout the building. Visit epa.gov/iaq/pubs/airduct.html, or call (800) 438-4318 for a free copy.
  • If the water and/or mold damage was caused by sewage or other contaminated water, then call in a professional who has experience cleaning and fixing buildings damaged by contaminated water.
  • If you have health concerns, consult a health professional before starting cleanup.

Mold Cleanup Guidelines

Tips and techniques

The tips and techniques presented in this section will help you clean up your mold problem. Professional cleaners or remediators may use methods not covered in this publication. Please note that mold may cause staining and cosmetic damage. It may not be possible to clean an item so that its original appearance is restored.

  • Fix plumbing leaks and other water problems as soon as possible. Dry all items completely.
  • Scrub mold off hard surfaces with detergent and water, and dry completely.
  • Absorbent or porous materials, such as ceiling tiles and carpet, may have to be thrown away if they become moldy. Mold can grow on or fill in the empty spaces and crevices of porous materials, so the mold may be difficult or impossible to remove completely.
  • Avoid exposing yourself or others to mold (see discussions: What to Wear When Cleaning Moldy Areas and Hidden Mold).
  • Do not paint or caulk moldy surfaces. Clean up the mold and dry the surfaces before painting. Paint applied over moldy surfaces is likely to peel.
  • If you are unsure about how to clean an item, or if the item is expensive or of sentimental value, you may wish to consult a specialist. Specialists in furniture repair, restoration, painting, art restoration and conservation, carpet and rug cleaning, water damage, and fire or water restoration are commonly listed in phone books.
  • Be sure to ask for and check references. Look for specialists who are affiliated with professional organizations.

What to Wear when Cleaning Moldy Areas

  • Avoid breathing in mold or mold spores. In order to limit your exposure to airborne mold, you may want to wear an N-95 respirator, available at many hardware stores and from companies that advertise on the Internet. (They cost about $12 to $25.) Some N-95 respirators resemble a paper dust mask with a nozzle on the front, others are made primarily of plastic or rubber and have removable cartridges that trap most of the mold spores from entering. In order to be effective, the respirator or mask must fit properly, so carefully follow the instructions supplied with the respirator. Please note that the Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) requires that respirators fit properly (fit testing) when used in an occupational setting; consult OSHA for more information (800-321-OSHA or osha.gov/ ).
  • Wear gloves. Long gloves that extend to the middle of the forearm are recommended. When working with water and a mild detergent, ordinary household rubber gloves may be used. If you are using a disinfectant, a biocide such as chlorine bleach, or a strong cleaning solution, you should select gloves made from natural rubber, neoprene, nitrile, polyurethane, or PVC (see Cleanup and Biocides). Avoid touching mold or moldy items with your bare hands.
  • Wear goggles. Goggles that do not have ventilation holes are recommended. Avoid getting mold or mold spores in your eyes.

How Do I Know When the Remediation or Cleanup is Finished?

You must have completely fixed the water or moisture problem before the cleanup or remediation can be considered finished.

  • You should have completed mold removal. Visible mold and moldy odors should not be present. Please note that mold may cause staining and cosmetic damage.
  • You should have revisited the site(s) shortly after cleanup and it should show no signs of water damage or mold growth.
  • People should have been able to occupy or re-occupy the area without health complaints or physical symptoms.
  • Ultimately, this is a judgment call; there is no easy answer. If you have concerns or questions call the EPA Indoor Air Quality Information Clearinghouse at (800) 438-4318.

Moisture & Mold Prevention and Control Tips

  • Moisture control is the key to mold control, so when water leaks or spills occur indoors – ACT QUICKLY. If wet or damp materials or areas are dried 24-48 hours after a leak or spill happens, in most cases mold will not grow.
  • Clean and repair roof gutters regularly.
  • Make sure the ground slopes away from the building foundation, so that water does not enter or collect around the foundation.
  • Keep air conditioning drip pans clean and the drain lines unobstructed and flowing properly.
  • Keep indoor humidity low. If possible, keep indoor humidity below 60 percent (ideally between 30 and 50 percent) relative humidity. Relative humidity can be measured with a moisture or humidity meter, a small, inexpensive ($10-$50) instrument available at many hardware stores.
  • If you see condensation or moisture collecting on windows, walls or pipes ACT QUICKLY to dry the wet surface and reduce the moisture/water source. Condensation can be a sign of high humidity.

Actions that will help to reduce humidity:

  • Vent appliances that produce moisture, such as clothes dryers, stoves, and kerosene heaters to the outside where possible. (Combustion appliances such as stoves and kerosene heaters produce water vapor and will increase the humidity unless vented to the outside.)
  • Use air conditioners and/or de-humidifiers when needed.
  • Run the bathroom fan or open the window when showering. Use exhaust fans or open windows whenever cooking, running the dishwasher or dishwashing, etc.

Actions that will help prevent condensation:

  • Reduce the humidity (see above).
  • Increase ventilation or air movement by opening doors and/or windows, when practical. Use fans as needed.
  • Cover cold surfaces, such as cold water pipes, with insulation.
  • Increase air temperature.

Testing or Sampling for Mold

Is sampling for mold needed? In most cases, if visible mold growth is present, sampling is unnecessary. Since no EPA or other federal limits have been set for mold or mold spores, sampling cannot be used to check a building’s compliance with federal mold standards. Surface sampling may be useful to determine if an area has been adequately cleaned or remediated. Sampling for mold should be conducted by professionals who have specific experience in designing mold sampling protocols, sampling methods, and interpreting results. Sample analysis should follow analytical methods recommended by the American Industrial Hygiene Association (AIHA), the American Conference of Governmental Industrial Hygienists (ACGIH), or other professional organizations.

Hidden Mold

Suspicion of Hidden Mold

You may suspect hidden mold if a building smells moldy, but you cannot see the source, or if you know there has been water damage and residents are reporting health problems. Mold may be hidden in places such as the back side of dry wall, wallpaper, or paneling, the top side of ceiling tiles, the underside of carpets and pads, etc. Other possible locations of hidden mold include areas inside walls around pipes (with leaking or condensing pipes), the surface of walls behind furniture (where condensation forms), inside ductwork, and in roof materials above ceiling tiles (due to roof leaks or insufficient insulation).

Investigating hidden mold problems

Investigating hidden mold problems may be difficult and will require caution when the investigation involves disturbing potential sites of mold growth. For example, removal of wallpaper can lead to a massive release of spores if there is mold growing on the underside of the paper. If you believe that you may have a hidden mold problem, consider hiring an experienced professional.

Cleanup and Biocides

Biocides are substances that can destroy living organisms. The use of a chemical or biocide that kills organisms such as mold (chlorine bleach, for example) is not recommended as a routine practice during mold cleanup. There may be instances, however, when professional judgment may indicate its use (for example, when immune-compromised individuals are present). In most cases, it is not possible or desirable to sterilize an area; a background level of mold spores will remain – these spores will not grow if the moisture problem has been resolved. If you choose to use disinfectants or biocides, always ventilate the area and exhaust the air to the outdoors. Never mix chlorine bleach solution with other cleaning solutions or detergents that contain ammonia because toxic fumes could be produced.

Please note: Dead mold may still cause allergic reactions in some people, so it is not enough to simply kill the mold, it must also be removed.

Additional Resources

For more information on mold related issues including mold cleanup and moisture control/condensation/humidity issues, you can call the EPA Indoor Air Quality Information Clearinghouse at (800) 438-4318.

  • EPA’s Mold Resources page (https://www.epa.gov/iaq/molds/moldresources.html)
  • The EPA publication, Mold Remediation in Schools and Commercial Buildings (EPA 402-K-01-001, March 2001), is available.
  • Other Indoor Air Quality Publications – www.epa.gov/iaq/pubs

EPA would like to thank Paul Ellringer, PE, CIH, for providing the photo of mold on the back of wallpaper in the Hidden Mold section.

Central Gas Furnace Terms & Definitions

Posted on by T.F. O'Brien Cooling & Heating

Learning the Lingo When it Comes to Your Gas Furnace

Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency (AFUE): The Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency (AFUE) rating, indicates how well a furnace converts energy into usable heat. The rating is expressed as a percentage of the annual output of heat (output rating in Btus — British thermal units, a measure of energy) to the annual energy input to the furnace (input rating in Btus).

Ratings can be categorized in the following way:

  • Low Efficiency: AFUEs below 71 percent.
  • Mid-Efficiency: AFUEs between 71 and 83 percent.
  • High Efficiency: AFUEs of 90 percent and above.

Ratings between 84 and 89 percent are not common. Acidic condensate, harmful to the furnace, forms at these percentages. Public Law No. 100-12, passed in1987, requires that all gas furnaces manufactured after January 1, 1992, have aminimum AFUE of 78 percent.

Atmospheric Vent Combustion: If a chimney is available, furnaces with this system are the least expensive to install. Atmospheric vent furnaces have AFUEs of 60-65 percent when equipped with standing pilots, and AFUEs of 63-70 percent when equipped with electronic ignition systems.With special vent dampers, atmospheric vent units can achieve AFUEs of 78-80 percent.

Condensing (or Recuperative Units): These units are super efficient with some designs reaching AFUEs of up to 97 percent. Unlike conventional forced air furnaces, condensing units capture most of the water vapor and heat contained in hot flue gases that would normally escape up the chimney. The escaping gases then pass through a second heat exchanger and condensate is expelled. The heat exchangers are made of corrosion resistant stainless steel, and many have lifetime warranties. Exhaust is cooler than that of conventional furnaces and can be vented with PVC piping.

Downflow or Counterflow Furnace: These units have a blower at the top to draw air into the furnace. Heated air is blown out at the bottom. This type of furnace isused to supply floor duct systems.

Electronic Ignition: An electronic ignition eliminates the need for an energy-wasting standing pilot. Fuel is used only when needed. The pilot is ignited with an electric spark.

Heat Exchanger: The heat exchanger is a metal chamber in the furnace that houses a gas burner. The flame produced by the burner heats the chamber. When the outside of the chamber becomes hot, the air surrounding it is warmed and used to heat the house. Improved designs enhance efficiency and provide quieter operation.

Horizontal Flow Furnace: Air travels horizontally from one side of the heater, across the heat exchanger, and hot air is blown out the other side. This type of furnace is installed in areas with limited head room, such as attics or crawl spaces. They can also be installed below floors or suspended below ceilings.

Nonweatherproof: These units are designed to be installed indoors.

Power Combustion: In this system, combustion is produced by a blower. The blower pushes the combustion gases through the vent, and regulates the amount of combustion air. Power combustion furnaces do not require a draft hood. This reduces off-cycle losses and improves efficiency. Many power combustion furnaces operate at 78-80 percent AFUE. When equipped with an additional heat exchanger, they can operate at AFUEs of 90-96 percent.

Pulse Combustion: (These models are listed under condensing furnaces.) Pulse combustion is produced by self-perpetuated “pulses.” This unique system mixes air and fuel in a sealed combustion chamber. A spark ignites the mixture, and the resulting increase in pressure closes the gas/air inlet valve. The combustion products are forced through an exhaust pipe and the pressure in the combustion chamber drops, re-opening the inlet valve. The next combustion cycle is ignited by the heat remaining from the previous cycle. This process repeats itself about 60 times per second. Furnaces with this combustion system have AFUEs from 91-97 percent. Exhaust gases, at 100-200 degrees Fahrenheit, are cool enough to vent through PVC piping.

Sealed Combustion: Sealed combustion systems draw in all the air used for combustion from the outside, and exhaust gases are direct vented to the outside. Since cold outside air is not mixed with the warm indoor air during combustion, efficiency is enhanced. Furnaces with this type of combustion system have an AFUE range of 70-80 percent.

Upflow Furnace: These units have blowers at bottom that draw air into the furnace. Heated air is blown out at the top. These heaters can be installed in utility rooms, closets or basements.

Vent Damper: The vent damper is a “flapper” device installed in the flue. When the heat demand has been met, the damper closes, trapping residual heat for circulation in the home. When heat is needed, the damper opens before the burners are ignited to allow combustion fumes to escape. The damper remains open only as long as the burners are on. Burners cannot ignite if the damper is closed.

Weatherproof: These units are designed to be installed outdoors.

Definitions courtesy of The National Propane Gas Association.

Questions & Answers on Ozone Depletion

Posted on by T.F. O'Brien Cooling & Heating

How Do Humans Affect the Health of the Planet?

1. What is the ozone layer and why is it important?

The ozone layer is a concentration of ozone molecules in the stratosphere. About 90% of the planet’s ozone is in the ozone layer. The layer of the Earth’s atmosphere that surrounds us is called the troposphere. The stratosphere, the next higher layer, extends about 10-50 kilometers above the Earth’s surface. Stratospheric ozone is a naturally-occurring gas that filters the sun’s ultraviolet (UV) radiation. A diminished ozone layer allows more radiation to reach the Earth’s surface. For people, overexposure to UV rays can lead to skin cancer, cataracts, and weakened immune systems. Increased UV can also lead to reduced crop yield and disruptions in the marine food chain. UV also has other harmful effects.

2. How does ozone depletion occur?

It is caused by the release of chlorofluorocarbons (CFC’s) and other ozone-depleting substances (ODS), which were used widely as refrigerants, insulating foams, and solvents. The discussion below focuses on CFCs, but is relevant to all ODS. Although CFCs are heavier than air, they are eventually carried into the stratosphere in a process that can take as long as 2 to 5 years. Measurements of CFCs in the stratosphere are made from balloons, aircraft, and satellites.

When CFCs reach the stratosphere, the ultraviolet radiation from the sun causes them to break apart and release chlorine atoms which react with ozone, starting chemical cycles of ozone destruction that deplete the ozone layer. One chlorine atom can break apart more than 100,000 ozone molecules.

Other chemicals that damage the ozone layer include methyl bromide (used as a pesticide), halons (used in fire extinguishers), and methyl chloroform (used as a solvent in industrial processes). As methyl bromide and halons are broken apart, they release bromine atoms, which are 40 times more destructive to ozone molecules than chlorine atoms.

3. How do we know that natural sources are not responsible for ozone depletion?

While it is true that volcanoes and oceans release large amounts of chlorine, the chlorine from these sources is easily dissolved in water and washes out of the atmosphere in rain. In contrast, CFCs are not broken down in the lower atmosphere and do not dissolve in water. The chlorine in these human-made molecules does reach the stratosphere. Measurements show that the increase in stratospheric chlorine since 1985 matches the amount released from CFCs and other ozone-depleting substances produced and released by human activities.

4. What is being done about ozone depletion?

In 1978, the use of CFC propellants in spray cans was banned in the U.S. In the 1980s, the Antarctic “ozone hole” appeared and an international science assessment more strongly linked the release of CFCs and ozone depletion. It became evident that a stronger world wide response was needed. In 1987, the Montreal Protocol was signed and the signatory nations committed themselves to a reduction in the use of CFCs and other ozone-depleting substances.

Since that time, the treaty has been amended to ban CFC production after 1995 in the developed countries, and later in developing. Today, over 160 countries have signed the treaty. Beginning January 1, 1996, only recycled and stockpiled CFCs will be available for use in developed countries like the US. This production phaseout is possible because of efforts to ensure that there will be substitute chemicals and technologies for all CFC uses.

EPA coordinates numerous regulatory programs designed to help the ozone layer and continues to be active in developing international ozone protection policies. Individuals can also help, primarily by ensuring that technicians working on air conditioning and refrigeration equipment are certified by EPA, that refrigerants are recaptured and not released, and by educating themselves about the issue of ozone depletion.

5. Is there general agreement among scientists on the science of ozone depletion?

Yes. Under the sponsorship of the UN Environment Programme (UNEP) and the World Meteorological Organization (WMO), the scientific community issues periodic reports. Almost 300 scientists worldwide drafted and reviewed the WMO/UNEP Scientific Assessment of Ozone Depletion: 1994 ( can be obtained from EPA’s Stratospheric Ozone Protection hotline at 800-296-1996). An international consensus about the causes and effects of ozone depletion has emerged.

6. Will the ozone layer recover? Can we make more ozone to fill in the hole?

The answers, in order, are: yes and no. We can’t make enough ozone to replace what’s been destroyed, but provided that we stop producing ozone-depleting substances, natural ozone production reactions should return the ozone layer to normal levels by about 2050. It is very important that the world comply with the Montreal Protocol; delays in ending production could result in additional damage and prolong the ozone layer’s recovery.

Source: EPA Statospheric Protection Division

What to Look for in a Preventive Maintenance Agreement

Posted on by T.F. O'Brien Cooling & Heating

Regular HVAC Maintenance Will Save You Money on Repairs and Energy

Many homeowners fail to purchase a preventive maintenance agreement on their heating and cooling system because of cost issues.  The truth is, not purchasing an annual maintenance agreement can end up costing you even more in the long run.

A system that is well maintained on a timely basis ensures that your unit is running at peak performance – which means energy savings, and a lower utility bill for the homeowner.  Breakdowns and even small repairs can add up to a substantial amount of money. Because you never know when something unexpected may happen, these things can disrupt your life as well.  Imagine a major breakdown in the middle of winter on Long Island.  Through annual maintenance, the chances of something like this occurring are greatly reduced.

What should you look for in a preventive maintenance agreement?

  • Check to make sure that the various elements of your system get a “tune-up”.  This may include adjusting bypass dampers, operating pressures and thermostat calibration.
  • Flues, heat exchangers, evaporator coils, fan blades, start and run capacitors and delays and combustion air should be checked on each inspection.
  • Other components need regular cleaning, such as the combustion chamber, burners, condenser coils, evaporator drains and filters.
  • Amperage draw, gas input, voltage variances and temperature differences should be measured to ensure that all are working properly.

The benefits of an annual maintenance agreement are many.  A heat and air system is a big investment, one that you want to last for many years.  Having a preventive maintenance agreement to keep your unit in good working order means that you will save money, improve the efficiency of your system, save on repairs that are needed, and be able to depend on having heat and air when you need it most.

T.F. O’Brien services the Long Island, New York area.

Our goal is to help educate our customers about energy and home comfort issues (specific to HVAC systems).  For more information about preventive maintenance and other HVAC topics, please download our free Home Comfort Resource guide.

Dryer Fire Fact Sheet

Posted on by T.F. O'Brien Cooling & Heating

Dryer Safety Statistics and Implications

Dryer exhaust fires now surpass creosote (chimney) fires in frequency on a national level. In 1998, the most recent statistics available, the Consumer Product Safety Commission reports that over 15,600 dryer fires occurred killing 20 people, injuring 370 more and causing over $75.4 million in property damage. According to the CPSC, in most of these cases the culprit was lint getting into the machine’s heating element, sparking and fueling a fire. In response to this growing trend, many dryer manufacturers now employ a device that shuts the appliance down when airflow is obstructed. However, these safeguards are subject to wear and have been known to fail. Not surprisingly, some fire departments and insurance companies now require that dryer vents be inspected and cleaned regularly.

With gas dryers, there is also concern of carbon monoxide (CO) poisoning. Since lint and flue gases use the same avenue of exit from the house, a blocked vent can cause CO fumes to back up into the house. These fumes are colorless and odorless and they can be fatal. Low-level CO poisoning mimics flu symptoms (without the fever): headache, weakness, nausea, disorientation and deep fatigue. At higher levels, occupants can fall asleep, lapse into a coma and die.

Anatomy of a Dryer Fire

Dryer fires usually start beneath the dryer when the motor overheats. Overheating is caused by a build-up of lint in the duct that increases the drying time and blocks the flow of air, just like cholesterol in your arteries can build up and block the flow of blood to your heart. Naturally, any lint that has collected under the dryer will burn and the draft from the dryer will pull that fire up into the duct. Since the duct is coated or even blocked with lint, many times a house fire results. Other contributing conditions may include failure of the thermostat and limit switches in the dryer, lint inside the dryer, a missing or damaged lint screen, a crushed hose behind the dryer, or a bird’s nest or other debris blocking the vent.

Higher Risk Situations

  • Residential dryer vent lengths may not have an equivalent length greater than 25 feet. Five additional feet for each 90-degree bend must be added to the actual physical length to compute the vent’s equivalent length. This will determine the vent’s actual resistance to the airflow.
  • Homes with larger families or where dryers are used heavily are at greater risk.
  • Flexible plastic duct is no longer code-approved for clothes dryers. It is normally one of the first things burning lint will ignite, having been shown to flame in as little as 12 seconds. Lower cost and high flexibility often make it attractive to unadvised homeowners installing their own machines.
  • Flexible duct made of thin foil is not recommended for clothes dryers. It’s tendency to “kink” and stop airflow makes it dangerous to use.

Warning Signs

  • Dryer is still producing heat, but taking longer and longer to dry clothes, especially towels and jeans.
  • Clothes are damp or hotter than usual at the end of the cycle.
  • Outdoor flapper on vent hood doesn’t open when dryer is on.

Additional Benefits to Dryer Vent Cleaning:

  • Allows your dryer to operate more efficiently, using less energy and saving you money.
  • Protects your dryer from excess wear and premature death.
  • Helps clothes dry faster—a time savings for busy families.
  • Reduces excess household dust and humidity
  • Helps preserve clothing, as the life of many fabrics is damaged by excessive high heat.

Inspection Frequency

Most vents need cleaning every two to three years. Some dryer vents need attention more often. If it is the first time that a dryer vent has been cleaned, having it re-checked again in a year can help to make a reasonable judgment. Determining factors include:

  • How heavily the dryer is used
  • How long the vent is and the materials used. Shorter vents usually blow better.
  • The age and type of dryer used. Full size dryers blow better than smaller stack dryers or older dryers
  •  The design of the vent. Those with a lot of turns and elbows blow worse and build up more lint.

Overheated Clothes Dryers Can Cause Fires


Consumer Product Safety Alert
The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission estimates that there are an estimated annual 15,500 fires, 10 deaths, and 310 injuries associated with clothes dryers. Some of these fires may occur when lint builds up in the filter or in the exhaust duct. Under certain conditions, when lint blocks the flow of air, excessive heat build-up may cause a fire in some dryers. To prevent fires:

Clean the lint filter regularly and make sure the dryer is operating properly. Clean the filter after each load of clothes. While the dryer is operating, check the outside exhaust to make sure exhaust air is escaping normally, If it is not, look inside both ends of the duct and remove any lint. If there are signs that the dryer is hotter than normal, this may be a sign that the dryer’s temperature control thermostat needs servicing.

Check the exhaust duct more often if you have a plastic, flexible duct. This type of duct is more apt to trap lint than ducting without ridges.

Closely follow manufacturers’ instructions for new installations. Most manufacturers that get their clothes dryers approved by Underwriters Laboratories specify the use of metal exhaust duct. If metal duct is not available at the retailer where the dryer was purchased, check other locations, such as hardware or builder supply stores. If you are having the dryer installed, insist upon metal duct unless the installer has verified that the manufacturer permits the use of plastic duct.

Automatic & Programmable Thermostats

Posted on by T.F. O'Brien Cooling & Heating

Automatic Programmable Thermostats

In our modern, high-tech society, we don’t think much about some of the electronic gadgets in our homes. Take, for example, the ever-present thermostat–a staple of American households for decades. It usually takes the shape of an unassuming box on the wall, but that modest device controls the comfort of your family on the coldest day in January and the hottest day in July.

What Is a Thermostat?

It is a temperature-sensitive switch that controls a space conditioning unit or system, such as a furnace, air conditioner, or both. When the indoor temperature drops below or rises above the thermostat setting, the switch moves to the “on” position, and your furnace or air conditioner runs to warm or cool the house air to the setting you selected for your family’s comfort. A thermostat, in its simplest form, must be manually adjusted to change the indoor air temperature.

General Thermostat Operation

You can easily save energy in the winter by setting the thermostat to 68 degrees F (20 degrees C) when you’re at home and awake, and lowering it when you’re asleep or away.

This strategy is effective and inexpensive if you are willing to adjust the thermostat by hand and wake up in a chilly house. In the summer, you can follow the same strategy with central air conditioning, too, by keeping your house warmer than normal when you are away, and lowering the thermostat setting to 78 degrees F (26 degrees C) only when you are at home and need cooling. A common misconception associated with thermostats is that a furnace works harder than normal to warm the space back to a comfortable temperature after the thermostat has been set back, resulting in little or no savings. This misconception has been dispelled by years of research and numerous studies. The fuel required to reheat a building to a comfortable temperature is roughly equal to the fuel saved as the building drops to the lower temperature. You save fuel between the time that the temperature stabilizes at the lower level and the next time heat is needed. So, the longer your house remains at the lower temperature, the more energy you save.

Another misconception is that the higher you raise a thermostat, the more heat the furnace will put out, or that the house will warm up faster if the thermostat is raised higher. Furnaces put out the same amount of heat no matter how high the thermostat is set–the variable is how long it must stay on to reach the set temperature.

In the winter, significant savings can be obtained by manually or automatically reducing your thermostat’s temperature setting for as little as four hours per day. These savings can be attributed to a building’s heat loss in the winter, which depends greatly on the difference between the inside and outside temperatures. For example, if you set the temperature back on your thermostat for an entire night, your energy savings will be substantial. By turning your thermostat back 10 degrees to 15 degrees for 8 hours, you can save about 5% to 15% a year on your heating bill–a savings of as much as 1% for each degree if the setback period is eight hours long. The percentage of savings from setback is greater for buildings in milder climates than for those in more severe climates. In the summer, you can achieve similar savings by keeping the indoor temperature a bit higher when you’re away than you do when you’re at home.

But there is a certain amount of inconvenience that results from manually controlling the temperature on your thermostat. This includes waking up in a cooler than normal house in the winter and possibly forgetting to adjust the thermostat (during any season) when you leave the house or go to bed.

Thermostats with Automatic Temperature Adjustment

To maximize your energy savings without sacrificing comfort, you can install an automatic setback or programmable thermostat. They adjust the temperature setting for you. While you might forget to turn down the heat before you leave for work in the morning, a programmable thermostat won’t! By maintaining the highest or lowest required temperatures for four or five hours a day instead of 24 hours, a programmable thermostat can pay for itself in energy saved within four years.

Programmable thermostats have features with which you may be unfamiliar. The newest generation of residential thermostat technologies is based on microprocessors and thermistor sensors. Most of these programmable thermostats perform one or more of the following energy control functions:

-They store and repeat multiple daily settings, which you can manually override without affecting the rest of the daily or weekly program.

-They store six or more temperature settings a day.

-They adjust heating or air conditioning turn-on times as the outside temperature changes. Most programmable thermostats have liquid crystal temperature displays. Some have back-up battery packs that eliminate the need to reprogram the time or clock in case of a power failure. New programmable thermostats can be programmed to accommodate life style and control heating and cooling systems as needed.

A Note for Heat Pump Owners

When a heat pump is in its heating mode, setting back a conventional heat pump thermostat can cause the unit to operate inefficiently, thereby canceling out any savings achieved by lowering the temperature setting. Maintaining a moderate setting is the most cost-effective practice. Recently, however, some companies have begun selling specially designed setback thermostats for heat pumps, which make setting back the thermostat cost effective. In its cooling mode, the heat pump operates like an air conditioner; therefore, manually turning up the thermostat will save you money.

Types of Automatic and Programmable Thermostats

There are five basic types of automatic and programmable thermostats:
1.      electromechanical
2.      digital
3.      hybrid
4.      occupancy
5.      light sensing

Electromechanical (EM) thermostats, usually the easiest devices to operate, typically have manual controls such as movable tabs to set a rotary timer and sliding levers for night and day temperature settings. These thermostats work with most conventional heating and cooling systems, except heat pumps. EM controls have limited flexibility and can store only the same settings for each day, although at least one manufacturer has a model with separate settings for each day of the week. EM thermostats are best suited for people with regular schedules.

Digital thermostats are identified by their LED or LCD digital readout and data entry pads or buttons. They offer the widest range of features and flexibility, and digital thermostats can be used with most heating and cooling systems. They provide precise temperature control, and they permit custom scheduling. Programming some models can be fairly complicated; make sure you are comfortable with the functions and operation of the thermostat you choose. Remember– you won’t save energy if you don’t set the controls or you set them incorrectly. Hybrid systems combine the technology of digital controls with manual slides and knobs to simplify use and maintain flexibility. Hybrid models are available for most systems, including heat pumps.

Occupancy thermostats maintain the setback temperature until someone presses a button to call for heating or cooling. They do not rely on the time of day. The ensuing preset “comfort period” lasts from 30 minutes to 12 hours, depending on how you’ve set the thermostat. Then, the temperature returns to the setback level. These units offer the ultimate in simplicity, but lack flexibility. Occupancy thermostats are best suited for spaces that remain unoccupied for long periods of time.

Light sensing heat thermostats rely on the lighting level preset by the owner to activate heating systems. When lighting is reduced, a photocell inside the thermostat senses unoccupied conditions and allows space temperatures to fall 10? below the occupied temperature setting. When lighting levels increase to normal, temperatures automatically adjust to comfort conditions. These units do not require batteries or programming and reset themselves after power failures. Light sensing thermostats are designed primarily for stores and offices where occupancy determines lighting requirements, and therefore heating requirements.

By turning your thermostat back 10 to 15 degrees for 8 hours, you can save 5% to 15% a year on your heating bill – a savings of as much as 1% for each degree if the setback period is eight hours long.

Choosing a Programmable Thermostat

Because programmable thermostats are a relatively new technology, you should learn as much as you can before selecting a unit. When shopping for a thermostat, bring information with you about your current unit, including the brand and model number. Also, ask these questions before buying a thermostat:
•      Does the unit’s clock draw its power from the heating system’s low-voltage electrical control circuit instead of a battery? If so, is the clock disrupted when the furnace cycles on and off? Battery-operated back-up thermostats are preferred by many homeowners.
•      Is the thermostat compatible with the electrical wiring found in your current unit?
•      Are you able to install it yourself, or should you hire an electrician or a heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) contractor?
•      How precise is the thermostat?
•      Are the programming instructions easy to understand and remember? Some thermostats have the instructions printed on the cover or inside the housing box. Otherwise, will you have to consult the instruction booklet every time you want to change the setback times? Most automatic and programmable thermostats completely replace existing units. These are preferred by many homeowners. However, some devices can be placed over existing thermostats and are mechanically controlled to permit automatic setbacks. These units are usually powered by batteries, which eliminates the need for electrical wiring. They tend to be easy to program, and because they run on batteries, the clocks do not lose time during power outages.

Before you buy a programmable thermostat, chart your weekly habits including wake up and departure times, return home times, and bedtimes, and the temperatures that are comfortable during those times. This will help you decide what type of thermostat will best serve your needs.

A programmable thermostat can pay for itself in energy saved within four years.

Other Considerations

The location of your thermostat can affect its performance and efficiency. Read the manufacturer’s installation instructions to prevent “ghost readings” or unnecessary furnace or air conditioner cycling. Place thermostats away from direct sunlight, drafts, doorways, skylights, and windows. Also make sure your thermostat is conveniently located for programming.

Some modern heating and cooling systems require special controls. Heat pumps are the most common and usually require special setback thermostats. These thermostats typically use special algorithms to minimize the use of backup electric resistance heat systems. Electric resistance systems, such as electric baseboard heating, also require thermostats capable of directly controlling 120 volt or 240 volt line-voltage circuits. Only a few companies manufacture line-voltage setback thermostats.

A Simpler Way to Control Your Environment

The best thermostat for you will depend on your life style and comfort level in varying house temperatures. While automatic and programmable thermostats save energy, a manual unit can be equally effective if you diligently regulate its setting–and if you don’t mind a chilly house on winter mornings. If you decide to choose an automatic thermostat, you can set it to raise the temperature before you wake up and spare you some discomfort. It will also perform consistently and dependably to keep your house at comfortable temperatures during the summer heat, as well.

Source List

•      The Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy Clearinghouse (EREC) P.O. Box 3048 Merrifield, VA 22116 (800) 363-3732 Fax: (703) 893-0400
•      EREC provides free general and technical information to the public on the many topics and technologies pertaining to energy efficiency and renewable energy.

Reading List

•      “Electronic Thermostats,” Radio-Electronics, June 1992.
•      “Energy Saving Thermostats,” Consumer Reports, October 1993.” “Good News on the ‘Setback’ Front,” T. Wilson, Home Energy, Jan-Feb 1991. 2124 Kittredge Street, No. 95, Berkeley, CA 94704, (510) 524-5405. “Home Environment,” Home Mechanix, February 1992.
•      “Home Q&A,” Home Mechanix, November 1995.
•      “The Latest in Home Thermostats,” Consumers’ Research Magazine, February 1990.
•      “New Electronic Thermostats Save Money,” Consumers Digest, January 1989.
•      “Programmable Thermostats: How to Buy and Install One in Your Home,” Family Handyman, January 1989.
•      “Smart Thermostats for Comfort and Conservation,” March 1994, EPRI Journal.
•      This document was produced from material from the Information Services Program, under the DOE Office of Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy. The Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy Clearinghouse (EREC) is operated by NCI Information Systems, Inc., for NREL/DOE. The statements contained herein are based on information known to EREC and NREL at the time of printing. No recommendation or endorsement of any product or service is implied if mentioned by EREC.

Source: U.S. Department of Energy

A Professional Evaluation Can Be Your First Step to Energy Savings

Posted on by T.F. O'Brien Cooling & Heating

We all want to save money on our utility bills. It can be a shock to see the total on your bill in the sweltering summer season or the freezing winter. For New Yorkers, temperature extremes are a fact of life – but high energy bills do not have to be.

In order to keep more of your hard-earned money, you need to make sure your home is energy efficient. It can be very complicated to locate all the areas of your home that need an energy tune-up, then decide the best way to fix them. The good news is that you don’t have to take care of this on your own. Just call your local home energy expert for an energy savings consultation and home evaluation.

Your Home Energy Audit

Using specialized equipment, a certified professional will walk through your home and also inspect the inner workings of your heating, cooling and ventilation systems. HVAC inspectors are trained to spot areas in your home that are not properly insulated and locate any wasteful or potentially dangerous leaks in your system. They can also alert you to small problems before they turn into big repair bills.

In just a few minutes, you will have the results of your energy audit – a concise list of issues that are standing between you and big energy savings. After assessing your home’s energy needs, the inspector will recommend simple, straightforward solutions to improve your home’s energy efficiency. At this point, you will have an estimate of the amount you could save on your monthly bills.

T.F. O’Brien services the Long Island, New York area.

Our goal is to help educate our customers about energy and home comfort issues (specific to HVAC systems).  For more information about preventive maintenance and other HVAC topics, please download our free  Home Comfort Resource guide.

Does Ductwork Mold Take Winter Off?

Posted on by T.F. O'Brien Cooling & Heating

During the winter season on Long Island, it wouldn’t seem possible for mold to build up as dry heat goes constantly through your ducts. Your duct system is the guts of your furnace and cooling systems and must be kept healthy. While it’s true that mold is a bigger issue in the summer months, the winter season does not let homeowners off the hook when it comes to dangerous mold.

No matter the season, the inside of your HVAC system has its own micro-climate. There may be water leaks and humidity within your walls that are not obvious to the casual observer. Because doors and windows are usually shut tight in winter, your family may be even more exposed to mold in the closed environment.

Mold in the New York area is such a big problem that a government  study  was funded to assess the extent of the issue faced by residents and propose some solutions. The report noted that mold is connected to serious symptoms of disease and discomforts such as allergic reactions, asthma attacks and skin reactions. If you or your family is suffering from allergy symptoms or even unexplained fatigue and tiredness, house mold could be the culprit.

The EPA (US Environmental Protection Agency) recommends that you have your air duct system cleaned if there is substantial visible mold growth in your ducts or other components of your heating and cooling systems.The agency suggests that you have the system inspected by a professional to find and address the root cause of the problem. After your inspection and possible clean-up, think about signing up for a semi-annual HVAC maintenance plan to catch any problems, such as mold buildup, early. Remember that certain types of mold can be toxic. Act now to protect your family’s health and keep your home comfortable.

T.F. O’Brien services the Long Island, New York area.

Our goal is to help educate our customers about energy and home comfort issues (specific to HVAC systems).  For more information about preventive maintenance and other HVAC topics, please download our free  Home Comfort Resource guide.

The Golden Rules of Designing a Zoned System

Posted on by T.F. O'Brien Cooling & Heating

Here are six common sense rules we teach our people that will make designing systems a breeze. When you design a zoned system you should follow these guidelines as much as possible when grouping rooms together to form a zone:

1)   Never combine different floors on the same zone. The fact that hot air rises, and cold air falls will sink you before you even begin. As everyone knows, there’s nothing worse than a customer with a hot head or cold feet!

2)   Never zone rooms of different construction types in the same zone. For an example, a new addition should always have it’s own thermostat since it t typically has better insulation than the rest of the home, and it will react differently than older sections of the home.

3)   Never zone rooms that have perimeter wall areas with rooms that are entirely internal to the structure since they are not affected by the outside temperature changes. All internal rooms should be grouped together whenever possible.

4)   All thermostats should be located in the room used the most in any area. Just like with non-zoned systems thermostats should never be installed in hallways, unless the customer plans on doing most of his living there.

5)   Never put rooms with conflicting solar or mechanically generated heat loads on the same zone. For example don’t put a east facing room that receives a heavy morning sun load onto the same zone as a western facing room.

6)   Always try to have a minimum of two registers for any one zone. This keeps the air flow more stable, and guarantees airflow when the customers dog decides to nap on top of one.

You may not be able to follow every rule, but if you at least take them into consideration when you design a system you’ll avoid a lot of trouble.

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